Undercover

SUMMARY

UNDERCOVER is a Japanese fashion brand founded in 1993 by Jun Takahashi. Equally acclaimed for its cult streetstyle aesthetic and as a fixture on Paris’ high fashion calendar due to its craftsmanship, it is recognised for its avant-garde aesthetics, which combines punk influences and street culture with high fashion elements. UNDERCOVER has played a pivotal role in shaping contemporary Japanese fashion, gaining international acclaim through collaborations with brands such as Nike, Uniqlo, Champion and Supreme. Each collection is developed with the unique viewpoint of the designer. Since moving his collection from Tokyo to Paris in 2002, UNDERCOVER is celebrated worldwide for its innovative designs, subversive messaging, and meticulously crafted collections.

HISTORY

UNDERCOVER was established in 1993 by Jun Takahashi while he was a student at the Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo. Deeply influenced by punk music and the works of designers like Rei Kawakubo and Vivienne Westwood, Takahashi integrated the brand with rebellious albeit meticulously designed elements. The brand’s early collections gained traction within Tokyo’s underground fashion scene, particularly in the Harajuku district.

In 1994, Takahashi co-founded the streetwear label Nowhere with NIGO, the creator of A Bathing Ape. The Tokyo boutique launched in 1993 and that became the first showcase for Takahashi’s talent as it became a hub for Tokyo’s street fashion movement. By the late 1990s, the brand had garnered recognition beyond Japan, thanks to its bold graphic designs and unconventional silhouettes.

Per WWD: ‘men’s represents a higher percentage of overall sales for the brand than women’s. In Japan it’s breaks down to 65 percent men’s, 35 percent women’s while internationally, it’s 55 percent men’s, 45 percent women’s. “Women’s is really where I make things that I want to make, and designs that I genuinely think are interesting. But my men’s collections are at a level where I’m entirely making things that I want to wear,” the designer said. “Even though I don’t personally wear the women’s collections, I can do different experiments and I make lots of different designs. The variety is much greater than in my men’s collections, and I can make things under various concepts. I try to make a story.”’

The brand made its Paris Fashion Week debut in 2002 with the collection “SCAB”, receiving critical acclaim for its deconstructed garments and punk-inspired elements. UNDERCOVER continued to impress with collections such as “But Beautiful” (2005) and “Paper Doll” (2007), both of which showcased Takahashi’s masterful ability to merge couture craftsmanship with streetwear aesthetics.

Throughout the 2010s, UNDERCOVER expanded its global presence, collaborating with major fashion houses and brands. Its partnerships with Nike, particularly the Gyakusou running line, demonstrated its ability to combine functionality with high fashion. Additionally, its collaborations with Uniqlo introduced UNDERCOVER’s unique aesthetic to a wider audience at an affordable price point.

Per SSense: ‘As with other Japanese mavericks including Rei Kawakubo (an early champion of Takahashi’s work) and Junya Watanabe, in Takahashi’s hands classic dressmaking is taken apart, turned upside down, and reassembled to stunning, modern effect. His knack for sartorial mash-ups results in lingerie that looks like utility gear and princely garments crafted out of simple shirt collars and cuffs.’

Sustainability has also become an increasing focus for UNDERCOVER in recent years. The brand has incorporated eco-conscious materials in some of its collections and explored upcycling techniques to reduce waste. While still maintaining its rebellious DNA, UNDERCOVER has evolved to address the growing demand for ethical fashion practices.

In addition to his main men’s and women’s lines, he has designed collaboration collections with Uniqlo and Nike. The brand’s collaboration with Levi’s made headlines. The 9-piece capsule collection had a jacket in black corduroy with detachable zip detailing. Sleeves and collars could be mixed and matched. Another jacket, made from black and white denim, was emblazoned with ‘light’ over one chest pocket and ‘darkness’ over the other, the text also screen-printed onto a pair of jeans. In 2021, UNDERCOVER collaborated with Valentino, merging Takahashi’s signature dark, conceptual style with Valentino’s sleek elegance, cementing UNDERCOVER’s image in luxury fashion.

Today, UNDERCOVER remains a key player in global fashion, continually pushing boundaries while staying true to its punk-inspired roots. Its collections are regularly showcased at Paris Fashion Week, where Takahashi continues to innovate and challenge the conventional norms of fashion design. The founder Jun Takahashi is also the president of his company, overseeing the business side as well as the design side.

The brand has just showcased at Paris Fashion Week. Per WWD: ‘The street casting painted a vivid picture of the “unpolished, ugly but beautiful” Undercover female archetypes who are not afraid to look different and age gracefully with style and quirk. Highlights included asymmetric tailoring, dramatic-shaped puffers, spiral cut Champion track sets, jacquard ensembles dripping with pins, beads, buttons and gold ornaments, padded coats with uneven finishing, rolled-up ripped jeans and monstrous heels supplied by Dupond.’

VISION

Jun Takahashi envisions UNDERCOVER as more than just a fashion label—it is a platform for artistic expression, storytelling, and cultural critique. His designs frequently reflect themes of dystopia, rebellion, and human emotion, creating garments that resonate with a deeper narrative beyond aesthetics. He sees UNDERCOVER as a bridge between high fashion and subculture, offering pieces that are both wearable and conceptually thought-provoking.

The designs challenge traditional notions of beauty and explore the tension between chaos and structure. Looking ahead, Takahashi aims to expand UNDERCOVER’s creative boundaries through multidisciplinary collaborations, experimental fabrications, and immersive runway presentations. His vision is to maintain the brand’s artistic integrity while adapting to the evolving landscape of global fashion.

MISSION STATEMENT

UNDERCOVER’s mission is to merge rebellious, avant-garde aesthetics with technical precision and storytelling. The brand seeks to create clothing that embodies the spirit of punk, yet remains sophisticated and meticulously crafted. A core aspect of UNDERCOVER’s mission is to innovate within the aesthetic of street-style while maintaining a strong connection to traditional craftsmanship. Additionally, UNDERCOVER is committed to sustainability and ethical production. As part of its mission, the brand aims to incorporate responsible sourcing, eco-conscious practices, and upcycling into its design processes.

EXECUTIVE BOARD

1. Jun Takahashi – Founder and Creative Director
2. Chitose Abe – Collaborator (on select projects)
3. Kei Kagami – Head of Innovation and Textile Development

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

UNDERCOVER offers an extensive portfolio of products, including ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories. The brand is particularly known for its graphic T-shirts, intricately designed outerwear, and experimental tailoring that combines street fashion with haute couture influences. The Gyakusou line, created in collaboration with Nike, showcases high-performance sportswear infused with UNDERCOVER’s signature aesthetic. The collection caters to athletes and fashion enthusiasts who appreciate a fusion of functionality and artistic design. UNDERCOVER’s runway collections remain its most iconic offerings, often featuring conceptual storytelling through garments. Notable collections include “Anatomicouture” (2013), “Brain Washed Generation” (2018), and “Fallen Man” (2020), which demonstrate Takahashi’s deep-rooted interest in philosophy, culture, and human psychology.

AWARDS AND RECOGNITION

UNDERCOVER has been widely celebrated within the global fashion community. In 2001, Jun Takahashi was awarded the Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix, one of Japan’s most prestigious fashion awards. This recognition marked a turning point for UNDERCOVER, affirming its role as a key player in the industry. The brand’s influence extends beyond traditional awards, as its collaborations with Nike and Valentino have been hailed as some of the most successful fashion partnerships in recent years. UNDERCOVER’s collections regularly receive critical acclaim, with fashion critics praising their thought-provoking themes and avant-garde execution. Today, UNDERCOVER is one of the most influential Japanese fashion brands, pushing creative boundaries while staying true to its rebellious ethos.

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