Maison Alaïa is legendary for its sharp tailoring and edgy take on classic silhouettes. Four years after the death of the French couturier, his legacy is being carried forward by Belgian designer Pieter Mulier, renowned for his work with Raf Simons, Jil Sander, Dior and Calvin Klein. So it’s no wonder that the fashion fraternity and loyalists were looking forward to Alaïa Fall Winter 2021 at Haute Couture Week in Paris.

Mulier opened his outdoor show — with guests seated on wooden chairs lining Rue de Moussy in the Marais — with his take on Azzedine Alaïa‘s hooded looks from 1984; here, a swath of wool draped over the head with geometric panels gliding over the body. hot-sellers were the sculpted- to- the- body tube dresses, Tunisian capes and oversized coats — some accessorised with statement belts and laser-cut chain-mail.  Supermodel Vittoria Ceretti — cocooned in a luscious coat — made head turns.

As the showing closed, the message that came across was one of respect for the maison. Pieter Mulier rose to the challenge of staying with the design aesthetic of Azzedine Alaïa while keeping the vibe current. Judging by the standing ovation, this sensuous autumn collection is going to be a sell-out in no time!