Last update on: 10:10 pm November 11, 2024 by fashionabc
Schiaparelli Creative Director Daniel Roseberry was honored with the International Designer of the Year Award at the 2024 Council of Fashion Designers of America Fashion Awards. This accolade, one of the most coveted in the fashion industry, celebrates Roseberry’s remarkable impact on global fashion and his body of work at the helm of the Parisian maison.
Daniel Roseberry won the International Designer of the Year Award at the 2024 CFDA Fashion Awards.
Since joining Schiaparelli in 2019, Daniel Roseberry has reimagined the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli, infusing her avant-garde spirit with modern, artistic expression. His visionary and instantly recognizable designs—bold, sculptural, and surreal— have captivated the fashion world, making our house a favorite among A-list celebrities and red carpet events worldwide” says Delphine Bellini, CEO of Schiaparelli. Roseberry’s collections integrate Haute Couture with the Maison’s signature gold and surreal aesthetic, combining luxurious craftsmanship with artful innovation.
The CFDA Awards, often regarded as the “Oscars of Fashion,” celebrate the innovators and icons shaping the landscape of American and global fashion. Hosted by the Council of Fashion Designers of America and supported by Amazon Fashion, this annual event showcased the exceptional talent that combines tradition with contemporary vision. Roseberry’s win underscores his impact on global fashion.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America
The Council of Fashion Designers of America [CFDA] is a not-for-profit trade association established in 1962, representing the pinnacle of American fashion. With a membership of leading designers across womenswear, menswear, jewellery, and accessories, the CFDA fosters both creativity and social responsibility, from hosting the prestigious CFDA Fashion Awards to addressing issues of racial inequality through the IMPACT program. Additionally, CFDA Fashion Incubator supports emerging fashion designers and manages the Fashion Calendar, a vital tool for industry scheduling and event coordination.
The CFDA owes much of its success to founder Eleanor Lambert, who dedicated over seventy years to elevating American fashion. Lambert’s influence was pivotal in landmark moments like the 1973 “Battle of Versailles,” an event that solidified America’s standing in International fashion. As one of the most prolific publicists in fashion and the arts, Lambert’s legacy continues through the CFDA, which not only honors her contributions with awards like the CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award but also builds on her work through projects such as Fashion Manufacturing Initiative. This program is designed to support and revitalize New York City’s garment industry by providing financial assistance to local production facilities, ensuring the continued success and innovation of American fashion design.
The CFDA Awards recognise outstanding contributions by designers, brands, and creatives who have made an impact on American and global fashion. Founded in 1981, the awards celebrate excellence in Womenswear, Menswear, and Accessories as well as special honors like Lifetime Achievement Award and Emerging Designer Award. These distinctions are pivotal in highlighting talent and honouring established icons who have shaped the fashion landscape. By shining a spotlight on creativity, innovation, and influence, the CFDA Awards play a critical role in advancing and celebrating the art of fashion.
The heritage of Schiaparelli
Favoured by Duchess of Windsor Wallis Simpson, Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn, Greta Garbo and Mae West, Elsa Schiaparelli instilled a creative spirit in twentieth-century fashion with her revolutionary vision in sportswear, Haute Couture, art, and fragrance.
During her stay in London, Elsa Schiaparelli spent a lot of time in museums. In 1914 she attended a lecture by Count Wilhelm de Wendt de Kerlor, fell in love and married him. The couple lived in Paris, Cannes, Monte Carlo and New York. Onboard a ship she became friends with Gabrielle Picabia- wife of Dadaist painter Francis Picabia- and became interested in the Dada and Surrealist movements. This had a strong influence on her design aesthetic.
In 1922, Schiaparelli moved back to Paris where she assisted Man Ray with his Dada magazine Société Anonyme. Here she befriended couturier Paul Poiret who was renowned for favouring styles that allowed freedom of movement for the modern woman. Schiaparelli had no training in the technical skills of pattern making or construction, and draped fabric directly on the body- sometimes using herself as the model!
Schiaparelli Anatomy Amber Leather Coat. Image: schiaparelli.com
Elsa launched a collection of knitwear in 1927 where she created her first trompe l’œil motif on a hand-knit sweater. Its popularity served as the catalyst to the creation of the Maison. The business took off with the “pour le Sport collection” which expanded to include swimsuits, ski-wear and linen dresses. Schiaparelli added evening wear in 1931 using the luxury silks of Robert Perrier and the business went from strength to strength, culminating in a move to the renowned salon of Louise Chéruit at 21 Place Vendôme, which was rechristened the Schiap Shop.
1931 was a milestone year. Schiaparelli’s collaboration with Russian-French writer Elsa Triolet led to the creation of the iconic Aspirin Necklace! This marks the first in Elsa’s collaborations as she continued to work with the greatest artists including Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dalí, Man Ray, Meret Oppenheim, and more.
Schiaparelli was one of the first fashion designers to develop the wrap dress, taking inspiration from aprons to produce a design that would flatter all body types. In 1930, she created the first evening dress with a coordinated jacket. She also created a precursor to the sports short, with her divided skirt. Other innovations include a swimsuit design with an interior bra with low-cut back using hidden straps that crossed in the back and closed around the waist. During Prohibition in the United States, Schiaparelli’s “speakeasy dress” provided a hidden pocket for a flask of alcohol. She also pioneered the use of visible zippers and gained notoriety for her unusual buttons.
The couture house shut down on 13 December 1954 though in a few years she created a company for her perfume licenses. Elsa Schiaparelli passed away in 1973 and the maison diversified into ready-to-wear after being bought in 2007 by Diego Della Valle. In no time it became critically acclaimed for its eccentric design, the use of Surrealism in its collections, and unconventional themes.
The House has been nominated for a return to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture list of members. Maison Schiaparelli used a business strategy to sell its first collection at a by-appointment boutique in Paris and is now moving towards luxury ready-to-wear under the baton of creative director Daniel Roseberry.
Jasmeen Dugal is Associate Editor at FashionABC, contributing her insights on fashion, technology, and sustainability. She brings with herself more than two decades of editorial experience, working for national newspapers and luxury magazines in India.
Jasmeen Dugal has worked with exchange4media as a senior writer contributing articles on the country’s advertising and marketing movements, and then with Condenast India as Net Editor where she helmed Vogue India’s official website in terms of design, layout and daily content. Besides this, she is also an entrepreneur running her own luxury portal, Explosivefashion, which highlights the latest in luxury fashion and hospitality.
