Last update on: 9:28 am September 5, 2024 by fashionabc
Haider Ackermann is the new Creative Director of US luxury brand, Tom Ford. Ackerman succeeds British fashion designer Peter Hawkings, who stepped down after two seasons in July 2024.
Haider Ackermann Appointed as Tom Ford’s New Creative Director
Ackermann will oversee all Tom Ford fashion categories. His first collection for Tom Ford will debut at Paris Fashion Week in March 2025. Per Forbes: ‘Based in Paris, he will report into Guillaume Jesel, President and CEO, Tom Ford and Luxury Business Development, who says, “Haider stands out as one of the world’s most visionary and inspiring talents in fashion. He draws on his deep affinity for global culture and the arts to create arresting fashion and memorable emotional connections. He is the ideal steward to usher Tom Ford into the future.”’
Tom Ford expressed his admiration for Ackerman in an official statement: “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work. I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling. He is an incredible colorist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all he is modern. We share many of the same historical references, and I could not be more excited to see what he does with the brand. I suspect that I will be the first on my feet to applaud after his show in March.”
Luxury brand Tom Ford reflects the founder’s vision of sophisticated, high-octane glamour. rooted in luxurious fabrics, impeccable tailoring and modern design. Apart from apparel and accessories, Tom Ford gradually expanded into beauty, eyewear, and fragrance, cementing its position in the luxury space. He is one of the most decorated fashion designers, honoured with five Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards and four VH1—Vogue Fashion Awards.
A new era at Tom Ford
Ackermann’s appointment is expected to usher in a fresh era for Tom Ford, combining his unique design aesthetic with the luxury fashion brand’s signature style. “It is with tremendous pride that I will seek to honour the legacy of Tom Ford, a man I have long admired and have the utmost respect for,” said Ackermann about the appointment. “I am much looking forward to what lies ahead.”
Praised for his mastery of fluid silhouettes, sharp tailoring, and minimalism, Ackermann has built a dedicated following over the years. The fashion community anticipates how Ackermann will integrate his distinct design aesthetic into Tom Ford’s iconic DNA, which has long been associated with bold, sexy, and glamorous designs.
The French fashion designer will take the reins from Tom Ford himself, who stepped down from his eponymous label in 2023 after it was acquired by Estée Lauder. The cosmetics giant in turn licensed its fashion business to Zegna, which operated its menswear division. His appointment marks a shift in the luxury brand’s creative direction, and it is expected that Ackermann’s visionary, experimental approach will lure a new generation of luxury consumers.
Ackerman has a rich history in luxury fashion
Ackerman was one of the strongest contenders for Creative Director. Praised for his ability to balance conceptual design with commercial appeal, Ackermann’s track record as a disruptor in luxury fashion is evocative of Tom Ford’s transformative impact on the industry, with a cult following that worshipped his sculptural tailoring and futuristic design aesthetic.
Ackerman studied fashion design at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, celebrated for its graduates Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten whose designs are rooted in strong silhouettes and sharp tailoring. After a brief time interning with John Galliano, the fashion designer launched his eponymous label in 2002, which was unfortunately suspended in 2020 due to the global pandemic.
Over the years, Ackerman was Creative Director of LVMH’s Berluti between 2016 and 2018, guest-designed the Spring/Summer 2023 haute couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier, and joined Canada Goose to become the outerwear label’s first Creative Director in May 2024. Therefore, the news of his appointment as Creative Director of Tom Ford, came as a surprise. Per BOF, ‘He will also continue in his role at Canada Goose on a part-time basis.’
Estée Lauder Companies’ acquisition of Tom Ford in 2023
Tom Ford Autumn Winter 2024. Image Source: tomforddesign.com
The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. is the sole owner of the Tom Ford brand and all its intellectual property. Under its stewardship, the purchase of the brand and the extension of its current licensing partners allows for continuity and further evolution as one of the powerhouse global luxury brands.
Per the statement by Estee Lauder Companies, “The deal values the total enterprise at $2.8 billion… Under the agreement, Tom Ford, Founder and CEO of Tom Ford International, will continue to serve as the brand’s creative visionary after closing and through the end of calendar 2023. Domenico De Sole, Chairman of Tom Ford International, will stay on as a consultant until that same time.”
The deal extends and expands the Tom Ford brand’s long standing relationship with Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. to include a long-term license for men’s and women’s fashion as well as accessories and underwear. As part of this transaction, Zegna acquires operations of the Tom Ford fashion business necessary to perform its obligations as licensee. Estee Lauder Companies and Zegna align closely on the creative direction to continue building on the luxury positioning of the Tom Ford brand. The brand’s current license with Marcolin, one of the leading global eyewear manufacturers, known for its superior craftsmanship and quality, will also be substantially extended.
“I could not be happier with this acquisition as The Estée Lauder Companies is the ideal home for the brand. They have been an extraordinary partner from the first day of my creation of the company and I am thrilled to see them become the luxury stewards in this next chapter of the Tom Ford brand. Ermenegildo Zegna and Marcolin have been spectacular long-standing partners as well and I am happy to see the preservation of the great relationship that we have built over the past 16 years. With their full commitment, I trust they will continue the brand’s future as a luxury company that strives to produce only the highest quality fashion and eyewear,” Tom Ford stated in a press release.
In this deal, Perella Weinberg Partners LP served as financial advisor to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., and Paul, Weiss, Rifkind, Wharton and Garrison LLP served as legal counsel. Goldman Sachs and Co. LLC served as sole financial advisor to Tom Ford and Skadden, Arps, Slate, Meagher and Flom LLP served as legal counsel. Zegna received financial advice from UBS. Latham and Watkins LLC served as legal counsel to Marcolin.
Tom Ford Market Share and Celebrity Collaborations
Tom Ford Autumn Winter 2024. Image Source: tomforddesign.com
Tom Ford is a global design house offering ready to wear, fashion accessories, eyewear and beauty. Founded in 2005 by Tom Ford, the luxury brand has a presence in more than hundred markets worldwide and is recognized as the architect of luxury glamour. In 2023, The Estée Lauder Companies became the sole owner of the brand and all its intellectual property.
Today Tom Ford is praised for its craftsmanship and glamorous designs. The luxury brand has a strong presence in Europe, North America, and Asia, with a growing market share driven by its appeal to sophisticated, fashion-conscious consumers. Per parent brand Estee Lauder’s 2024 fiscal report: “Reported net sales decreased 2 percent, including royalty revenue from the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter acquisition of the Tom Ford brand, the impact from foreign currency translation and returns associated with restructuring and other activities.”
Celebrity collaborations and endorsements have played a crucial role in Tom Ford’s marketing strategy. The luxury fashion brand has been embraced by a number of celebrities, including Jennifer Lopez, Beyoncé, and Brad Pitt. These collaborations have amplified Tom Ford’s visibility and appeal, reinforcing its status as a go-to label for those who seek to make a bold style statement. Additionally, Tom Ford’s innovative advertising campaigns and social media presence have further expanded its reach, attracting a new generation of fashion enthusiasts.
Jasmeen Dugal is Associate Editor at FashionABC, contributing her insights on fashion, technology, and sustainability. She brings with herself more than two decades of editorial experience, working for national newspapers and luxury magazines in India.
Jasmeen Dugal has worked with exchange4media as a senior writer contributing articles on the country’s advertising and marketing movements, and then with Condenast India as Net Editor where she helmed Vogue India’s official website in terms of design, layout and daily content. Besides this, she is also an entrepreneur running her own luxury portal, Explosivefashion, which highlights the latest in luxury fashion and hospitality.
