Comme des Garçons. Junya Watanabe. BAPE. Uniqlo. Japanese fashion brands have expanded beyond their  domestic market, influencing haute couture, high-street retail and streetstyle culture. It’s interesting how the expansion of Japanese fashion brands into Europe, North America and beyond is driven by an avant-garde aesthetic, haute couture, minimalist elegance and street style.

Japanese fashion brands

Image: Uniqlo

Japan’s fashion brands are dominating global fashion trends. However, is it the craftsmanship, the attention to detail or the masterful fabric manipulation? The way Japanese designers deftly combine textile tradition with innovation? Or the lure of the exotic? Let’s explore the many facets of Japanese fashion brands, from their foundation in rich cultural heritage to their cutting-edge innovations.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

  1. Japanese fashion brands dominating global fashion
  2. Key fashion movements from Japan
  3. Success Strategies of Japanese Fashion Brands
  4. Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo
  5. Where to buy Japanese fashion world-wide

Japanese fashion brands dominating global fashion

Comme des Garçons

Japanese fashion brand Comme des Garçons was founded in 1969 by designer Rei Kawakubo. Recognised for its avant-garde and innovative approach to fashion, Comme des Garçons challenges traditional notions of design, often combining deconstructionist techniques with experimental silhouettes. Headquartered in Tokyo, the luxury brand has established a significant global presence with flagship stores in Paris, New York, London, and Tokyo. Today it is celebrated for its design aesthetic, collaborations with brands such as Nike, Converse, and Supreme and influential sub-labels such as CDG Play, CDG Homme and Noir Kei Ninomiya.

Comme des Garçons also leverages strategic retail expansion and branding to cement its global dominance. Its Dover Street Market concept stores, launched in cities like Tokyo, London and New York, redefine the luxury shopping experience with a curation of an eclectic mix of designers and exclusive releases. Diffusion line Comme des Garçons Play has achieved mass appeal, particularly through the iconic heart logo seen on T-shirts and sneakers. This accessibility, combined with the brand’s artistic integrity, allows Comme des Garçons to bridge the gap between high fashion and streetwear.

Issey Miyake

Japanese fashion brand Issey Miyake is a pioneer in textile innovation and futuristic fashion, known for his signature pleating techniques and lightweight, technical fabrics. His iconic Pleats Please collection, launched in 1993, with wrinkle-resistant garments that are easy to maintain and designed for movement, made it popular in global markets. The Japanese fashion brand’s iconic Bao Bao bags, with their geometric patterns and futuristic designs, have become a staple. Miyake’s ability to combine fashion, technology and wearability has influenced both Japanese and Western designers, securing his place as a visionary in global fashion.

Beyond its technical innovations, Issey Miyake dominates global fashion trends through strategic branding and collaborations that bridge the gap between art and technology. The brand’s presence at Paris Fashion Week consistently showcases its ability to combine brand heritage with a modern aesthetic, influencing both luxury and ready-to-wear markets. With flagship stores in Tokyo, New York, and London, Issey Miyake has expanded its reach to a global audience. Additionally, the brand’s influence extends beyond fashion into design, architecture, and sustainability, setting new standards for the industry.

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto is acclaimed for his oversized, draped silhouettes and rejection of conventional tailoring. Since his debut in 1981, his avant-garde approach has influenced global fashion trends, with designers adopting his minimalist and deconstructed aesthetic. His designs, characterized by drapery, asymmetrical cuts, and intricate layering, have redefined contemporary menswear and womenswear, influencing both high fashion and street style. Yamamoto’s global expansion is bolstered by his continued presence at Paris Fashion Week, which reinforces his role as a visionary as his collections push the boundaries of design.

Beyond the runway, Yohji Yamamoto’s strategic collaborations have further solidified his influence in the industry. His long-standing partnership with Adidas for the Y-3 line has merged luxury fashion with sportswear, setting trends in high-end athleisure and sneaker culture. Additionally, his work with brands like Hermès and New Era showcases his ability to effortlessly combine tradition with modern innovation. The brand’s flagship stores in Tokyo, Paris, and New York serve as cultural hubs, attracting fashion enthusiasts who appreciate his distinctive aesthetic. As Japanese fashion brands continue to shape global style, Yohji Yamamoto remains a key player, celebrated for his commitment to artistic expression, rebellious spirit, and timeless innovation.

Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe, a protégé of Rei Kawakubo, influenced global fashion through his avant-garde approach and mastery of textile innovation. As a key figure at Comme des Garçons before launching his eponymous label in 1992, Watanabe is popular for his experimental designs, deconstructed tailoring, and unconventional use of materials. His creations merge traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology. By combining structured silhouettes with fabric manipulations, Watanabe has established himself as a pioneer in modern luxury fashion and streetwear aesthetics.

Watanabe’s impact on fashion extends beyond his independent collections through collaborations that merge his conceptual vision with mainstream brands. His partnership with Levi’s, The North Face, New Balance and Nike redefined the intersection of high fashion and utility, bringing his experimental craftsmanship to a wider demographic. These collaborations expanded his global reach and influenced trends in hybrid fashion, where functionality meets couture-like precision.

Sacai

Founded by Chitose Abe in 1999, Sacai is celebrated for its hybrid fashion aesthetic, combining textures, layered fabrics, and reconstructed silhouettes. The brand’s signature splicing technique, which merges elements from different garments—such as trench coats with bomber jackets or knitwear with lace—has redefined contemporary fashion. His approach to design—deconstructing and reassembling garments into new forms—has reshaped luxury streetwear and contemporary fashion. 

Sacai’s dominance of global fashion trends has been accelerated by high-profile partnerships with brands such as Nike, The North Face, Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier which bridged the gap between high fashion and streetwear, making its designs accessible to a wider audience. The Nike x Sacai LDWaffle sneaker became a cultural phenomenon, combining running shoe design with experimental layering techniques. Its presence at Paris Fashion Week consistently generates international attention, reinforcing Sacai’s position as a leader in luxury fashion. With flagships in Tokyo and Beijing, the brand continues to expand its reach worldwide.

Uniqlo

Japanese fashion brands

Image: Uniqlo

Part of Fast Retailing Co. Ltd., a Japanese retail holding company with global headquarters in Tokyo, Uniqlo was founded in Yamaguchi, Japan in 1949 as a textile manufacturer. Today it has become Japan’s most successful fashion retailer, with a global presence spanning Asia, Europe, North America, and beyond. The brand’s focus on fine textiles, stringent quality and timeless styles, at accessible prices, is intact since.

Uniqlo’s expansion strategy focuses on affordable, high-quality basics that incorporate innovative fabric technology such as HEATTECH, AIRism, and UV-protection fabrics. Its minimalist approach and emphasis on functionality makes it a go-to brand for consumers worldwide. Uniqlo’s rise is fuelled by collaborations with designers and artists, such as JW Anderson, Christophe Lemaire, and KAWS, making its collections fashionable and accessible. The Japanese fashion brand’s ability to adapt to different markets, while maintaining its distinct craftsmanship, helps it compete with fast fashion giants Zara and H&M.

Undercover 

Jun Takahashi’s Undercover has been at the forefront of street style and punk-inspired fashion since 1990, by deftly combining punk aesthetics, streetwear influences, and high-fashion craftsmanship. The brand’s rebellious design aesthetic, characterised by graphic designs, asymmetry, and dystopian influences, has made it a staple at Paris Fashion Week and a favourite among streetwear fans. 

Undercover’s global reach expanded through collaborations with Nike and Valentino, positioning it at the intersection of luxury fashion and underground culture. Nike x Undercover Gyakusou reimagines sportswear with technical precision and avant-garde styling. Takahashi’s ability to merge art, music and fashion introduces his label to a wide demographic. Undercover focuses on subversive storytelling and technical craftsmanship today, ensuring that it remains a key player in shaping global fashion trends.

BAPE

Founded in 1993 in Harajuku by Nigo, A Bathing Ape (BAPE) is popular for its graphics and typography, which the creative director would later bring to Kenzo as artistic director. The Japanese brand is one of the original streetwear icons, with deep connections to hip-hop and street culture, and has acquired a roster of A-list global clientele with Pharrell Williams wearing looks from each collection. Bape also has key high-fashion collaborations including Comme des Garçons.

Known for its bold camo prints, shark hoodies, and exclusive drops, BAPE has been at the centre of the hype-driven fashion culture that dominates global streetwear markets. Its influence on global fashion trends skyrocketed through collaborations with Adidas, Supreme, and Louis Vuitton, cementing its place in luxury street style. While the brand has expanded with flagships in New York, London, and Hong Kong, it retains its limited-edition appeal, making it one of the most coveted labels in streetwear.

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Key fashion movements from Japan 

Harajuku

Harajuku fashion is an eclectic and vibrant street style originating from Tokyo’s Harajuku district, known for its mix of bold colours, layered outfits, and DIY aesthetics. It embraces individuality, drawing inspiration from Gothic, Lolita, punk, and cosplay subcultures. Brands like 6%DOKIDOKI founded by Sebastian Masuda, and Comme des Garçons led by Rei Kawakubo played pivotal roles in shaping this movement. Notable collaborations include Louis Vuitton x Takashi Murakami, where Murakami’s playful, colourful motifs perfectly complemented the whimsical energy of Harajuku style.

Louis Vuitton x Takashi Murakami

Kawaii Culture

Kawaii, meaning “cute” in Japanese, is a fashion and cultural movement emphasising childlike innocence, pastel colours, and adorable motifs. It extends beyond fashion into lifestyle, beauty, and corporate branding. Hello Kitty by Sanriois one of the most globally recognised icons of Kawaii culture. Designers such as Angelic Pretty specialise in Lolita fashion, a subgenre of Kawaii style known for its Victorian-inspired dresses. Collaborations like Puma x Hello Kitty showcase how the Kawaii aesthetic has been incorporated into mainstream global fashion.

Techwear

Techwear combines futuristic design aesthetics with functionality, incorporating waterproof fabrics, modular components, and ergonomic designs. Rooted in Japanese minimalism and influenced by cyberpunk themes, it is popular among urban explorers and digital nomads. Brands like Acronym, founded by Errolson Hugh, and Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 in collaboration with Adidas have pushed the boundaries of techwear by integrating cutting-edge materials and avant-garde designs. Nike All Conditions Gear, which frequently collaborates with Japanese designers, exemplifies the seamless fusion of technology and fashion.

Wabi-Sabi

Wabi-sabi is a Japanese philosophy embracing imperfection, transience, and natural beauty. In fashion, it manifests through raw textures, asymmetrical designs, and earthy tones, highlighting distressed or deconstructed elements. Designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake are known for incorporating wabi-sabi principles into their avant-garde collections. A perfect example is Levi’s x Junya Watanabe, where distressed denim and patchwork techniques reflect the beauty of imperfection.

Success Strategies of Japanese Fashion Brands

Japanese fashion brands employ distinct business strategies that sets them apart in global fashion. Uniqlo, owned by Fast Retailing, thrives on an affordability-driven model, focusing on high-quality basics at accessible prices. Their “LifeWear” philosophy ensures functionality, durability and timeless design. Strategic collaborations such as Uniqlo x JW Anderson democratises fashion with mass-market prices. Meanwhile, Comme des Garçons founded by Rei Kawakubo operates on the opposite end of the spectrum, leveraging exclusivity and avant-garde aesthetics. Their PLAY sub-line, marked by the iconic heart logo, has achieved mainstream appeal while high-profile collaborations like Comme des Garçons x Supreme maintain their cult status among streetwear enthusiasts.

Collaboration has been a cornerstone of Japanese fashion brands’ global success, allowing them to merge innovation with heritage. Nike x Sacai, spearheaded by Chitose Abe, revolutionised sneaker design through deconstruction and layering, creating the most sought-after hybrid footwear. Similarly, Louis Vuitton x NIGO bridged luxury and streetwear by integrating NIGO’s Human Made aesthetic into Louis Vuitton’s leather goods. These partnerships amplify brand visibility, attracting new consumer demographics while maintaining authenticity—a key factor in the enduring appeal of Japanese fashion labels.

Craftsmanship and sustainability play a significant role in the identity of Japanese fashion. Brands like Issey Miyake and Visvim prioritise traditional techniques such as pleating, natural dyeing, and hand-stitching, preserving Japanese artisanal heritage. Sustainability is increasingly integral to their strategies, with brands like BEAMS incorporating upcycling and eco-friendly materials into their collections. Uniqlo, despite its mass-market positioning, repurposes old garments. By balancing modern innovation with time-honoured craftsmanship and environmental consciousness, Japanese fashion brands continue to dominate global fashion trends with creativity and responsibility.

Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo

Tokyo Fashion Week, officially Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo, is a key platform for emerging and established Japanese fashion designers to showcase their collections. Unlike the more commercialised and trend-driven shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, Tokyo Fashion Week focuses on innovation, avant-garde aesthetics and craftsmanship. It is a melting pot of experimental designs, combining streetwear with high fashion. While global fashion capitals prioritise luxury houses and celebrity-driven marketing, Tokyo fosters an environment where underground labels and independent fashion designers thrive. The event highlights brands like Anrealage and Undercover, which push the boundaries of conceptual fashion.

Despite its niche appeal, Japanese fashion brands have gained significant recognition on the global stage. Designers like Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake have a strong presence at Paris Fashion Week, reinforcing the avant-garde influence of Japanese fashion. Collaborations with luxury Western brands—such as Sacai x Dior and Louis Vuitton x NIGO—further demonstrate Japan’s impact on global fashion. Additionally, flagship stores for Japanese fashion brands Visvim, AMBUSH, and Comme des Garçons are in prestigious retail locations worldwide, including Dover Street Market, Bergdorf Goodman and Harrods. This global expansion cements Japan’s reputation as a powerhouse of creativity, combining traditional Japanese aesthetics with innovation in luxury fashion and streetwear.

Where to Buy Japanese Fashion Worldwide

Japanese fashion is accessible worldwide through a mix of online platforms and brick-and-mortar stores that stock luxury and street style brands. Online retailers such as Farfetch, SSENSE, and END Clothing offer a curated selection of Japanese designers, including Comme des Garçons, Sacai, and Undercover, making it easy for shoppers to explore the avant-garde styles. Meanwhile, platforms like ZOZOTOWN, Japan’s largest online fashion retailer, provide a gateway to Japanese fashion brands that don’t have global distribution. Many Japanese labels such as Visvim and Kapital also operate their own e-commerce sites.

For those seeking an in-person shopping experience, major cities around the world host flagship stores and multi-brand boutiques carrying Japanese fashion. Dover Street Market, founded by Rei Kawakubo, has locations in London, New York, LA and Beijing, stocking a range of Japanese fashion brands. Department stores Bergdorf Goodman, Selfridges and Harrods feature select pieces from Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, and AMBUSH. In Tokyo, districts like Shibuya, Harajuku, and Aoyama are home to flagship stores and exclusive boutiques, while concept stores like GR8 in LaForet Harajuku showcase cutting-edge Japanese streetwear. Whether shopping online or in-store, fashion enthusiasts worldwide have ample opportunities to explore and invest in Japan’s distinctive style