Paris Fashion Week Men’s Fall Winter 2025 features thirty-seven runway shows and thirty presentations, from Peter Copping’s debut as Artistic Director of Lanvin to the return of Saint Laurent and Paul Smith and, of course, major global brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior, Rick Owens, Hermès and Kenzo.
Dior Homme Autumn Winter 2025
Paris Men’s takes place in the aftermath of the Los Angeles wildfires. A number of LA-based labels are going ahead with their shows despite devastating circumstances.
‘The most challenging part was a lot of difficulties working with vendors and staff because of all the evacuations and the air quality. There was a lot of sadness and stress and emotions during the time…’ Nahmias tells Vogue Business. ’It was harder to get samples completed and we had to shut down our flagship store for a while.’
Another highlight of Paris Men’s Week is the opening of the Louvre Couture exhibit. Per Vogue Business: “Curator Olivier Gabet has created a dialogue between contemporary fashion designs and decorative arts, a first for the world’s largest museum. It involves around 70 silhouettes and 30 accessories including from Anderson, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Matthieu Blazy.” The exhibit opens on 24 January and runs until 21 July.
Ungaro
Innovative textures, sharp tailoring and sophisticated palette: Philippe Paubert remained steadfast to the Ungaro aesthetic, showing a collection inspired by the textile heritage of Scotland, from the rugged landscape of the highlands, from the rich heritage of traditional carded wools, from the historic stone buildings, from the lush greens glens. The sophisticated side of the collection is a tribute to the work of Charles R. Mackintosh, to his delicate floral watercolours and his geometrical abstract textile patterns.
Maison Emanuel Ungaro showed a re-interpretation of the British style in a softer approach through the velvet shawl collar tuxedo jacket, the deco jacquard peacoat, the soft outerwear and the large, pleated pants in fluid blended wools. Paubert added functional detailing like large pockets in the outerwear and bold metallic zippers. As movement and ease remain constant research, knitted fabrics structures help to revisit the formal suits and jackets. Thistle, the emblematic Scottish flower, used historically to produce carded wool, is largely used in the graphic patterns. Per WWD: “Lightweight yet textured fabrics played into the theme well, with tweed-like textiles woven in Italy with a soft hand, chunky looking check jerseys and warm flannel coats with straight lines and practical hoods…”
Louis Vuitton
Pharrell Williams collaborated with Kenzo Creative Director and Bape founder Nigo for Louis Vuitton Homme AW2025, which opened Paris Fashion Week Men’s. The 84-look was visibly restrained albeit reflecting the sleek, street style aesthetic both designers pioneered in global fashion and the broader shift in menswear trends. Fine fabric, masterful tailoring and embellishment was the mainstay while playful elements like a lobster-shaped handbag reflected both designers’ love of Japanese street culture.
Per Esquire: ’The interplay between Pharrell’s signature dandy aesthetic and Nigo’s love of functional twentieth century workwear resulted in some excellent pieces, such as a chore jackets in sakura pink [and a damier print suit in the same cherry blossom tones], ornamental brooches pinned to breast pockets. There was plenty of Japanese denim, a new skate-style sneaker silhouette called the ’ButterSoft’ …and a final chapter full of tailoring.’
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Rick Owens
Rick Owens brought a dystopian energy to Paris Fashion Week with his avant-garde Fall 2025 menswear, turning the Palais de Tokyo into a stark industrial stage inspired by his past in the industrial town of Concordia in northern Italy. Strobe lights cut through the darkness as shaved-headed models with eerie contact lenses walked the runway in long, sculptural coats with exaggerated shoulders accessorised with masks, armour-like jewellery and towering platform boots.
Crop tops with exaggerated shoulders juxtaposed hooded coats and tasseled flared pants. Chain-link skirts, bleached alligator jackets and bronze-treated textured denim added bold textures. Sustainability was central, with eco-certified wool thermals and water-saving denim treatments. Owens ability to challenge traditional ideas of beauty, combining wearable art with a post-apocalyptic, surreal vibe keeps his body of work powerful and thought-provoking.
Dior
Dior menswear masterfully shifted between periods and silhouettes, with men’s couture integrated into the ready-to-wear line. There were satin blouses with balloon sleeves, a monastic coat worn as a long skirt, open-neck sweaters and jackets with raised drawstring collar and buckled sleeves, the trench and the opera coat. A play of volume is seen throughout, from fitted to flared; a nod to gender inclusive fashion. Though Jones uses silk and satin, the silhouettes are stripped back through controlled drapery. The main embroidery is taken from Dior Spring 1948 haute couture and the bows, spotted on the footwear and the back of opera coats, support gender fluidity.
The figure of Casanova dominates the collection steeped in the excesses of the eighteenth century, the extravagant man and the motif of the mask i.e. the blindfold worn by the male models. Per WWD: ‘Back in the 18th century, it was not unusual to see fashionable men sporting brightly colored silk damask coats. Jones channeled that idea with belted kimono jackets and a pink satin robe embroidered with a motif borrowed from Dior’s Pondichéry dress from 1948.’
“We wanted to go back to the roots and concentrate on the quintessence of the house. There is a sense of fashion history, particularly the history of menswear, running through this collection. The shift from something quite ornate and extravagant in the eighteenth century to something more linear and utilitarian in the nineteenth… Yet, while a lot refers to the history of fashion, this is not historical fashion. Ultimately, in this collection, we wanted to say something about now,” explains Kim Jones in the press release.
Commes Des Garcons
‘To hell with war’. This was the title of Comme des Garçons Homme. Amid a luxury market slowdown when one would expect fashion designers to play it safe and focus on sartorial classics, Rei Kawakubo delivered outerwear with deconstruction, sharp tailoring and runway theatricality.
Per WWD: “The footwear — army boots with the toe box upturned at a 90-degree angle — was enough to send a message that war is a dead end. Kawakubo went much, much further: draping army helmets with the thick satin used for turbans… splicing military tailoring in olive drab with pinstripes, colored felt, tartans, denim, fancy jacquards, flower-power prints and pastel-colored woolens… Pants became agglomerations of drooping cargo pockets, and tailcoats were cut with the precision of Savile Row, but with raw, off-kilter elements.”
Hermès
As Artistic Director of the Hermès men’s universe, Véronique Nichanian is astute at creating garments that the guests would want to purchase and wear right off the runway. This was true of her Fall 2025 collection shown at Palais d’Iéna. Velvet suits with notched lapels and wide-cut trousers, the jacket with a shawl collar and the turtleneck sweater with a patchwork of triangles, rectangles, and squares were the highlights.
Nichanian kept less layering this season because she wanted to keep her silhouettes sleek. Sweaters with bold chevrons and geometric designs were inspired by the stripes of racing silks, reminding us of the brand’s equestrian rots. Though rooted in classic tailoring, the Fall 225 menswear celebrated irreverence. Nichanian’s juxtaposition of brand heritage and modern aesthetic captured the Hermès ethos with a quiet confidence.
Lanvin
Founded in 1889, Lanvin is built on the legacy of its visionary founder Jeanne Lanvin’s concept of “le Chic Ultime” as the guiding principle of the Maison. Held on the last day of Paris Fashion Week, Artistic Director Peter Copping, former Creative Director at Nina Ricci and Oscar de la Renta, debuts for the legendary brand with men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections in a co-ed show.
Per BoF: “A move to the less-crowded menswear calendar could help position the Paris-based luxury brand’s return as one of the week’s highlights. Roman rival Valentino has pulled out of menswear week, preferring to show fewer, mixed-gender collections under creative director Alessandro Michele, while a likely ready-to-wear debut show for Chanel’s next designer (yet unannounced) risks dominating the spotlight during the next women’s season.”
Jasmeen Dugal is Associate Editor at FashionABC, contributing her insights on fashion, technology, and sustainability. She brings with herself more than two decades of editorial experience, working for national newspapers and luxury magazines in India.
Jasmeen Dugal has worked with exchange4media as a senior writer contributing articles on the country’s advertising and marketing movements, and then with Condenast India as Net Editor where she helmed Vogue India’s official website in terms of design, layout and daily content. Besides this, she is also an entrepreneur running her own luxury portal, Explosivefashion, which highlights the latest in luxury fashion and hospitality.
