Berluti

Summary

Founded in Paris in 1895, Berluti is a distinguished luxury brand renowned for its unparalleled craftsmanship in menswear, particularly bespoke and ready-to-wear shoes. The brand’s identity is deeply rooted in its artisanal heritage, with an emphasis on exquisite leatherwork and unique patinas that give each piece its signature character. Over the decades, Berluti has expanded its offerings to include high-end clothing and accessories, maintaining its commitment to sophistication and innovation. With a clientele that appreciates understated elegance, Berluti seamlessly blends tradition and modernity, ensuring its position as a symbol of refined style in the world of luxury fashion.

History

Established in 1895 by Alessandro Berluti, who remained creative director for five years, menswear leather brand Berluti is based in Paris. From its initial days, Berluti is distinctive for its blend of technical skill and creativity, with its roots in bespoke. And although some things have changed with the times, that artisanal spirit remains the same. Its interesting how Berluti became a bespoke brand. When Andy Warhol stepped into Berluti in 1962 to order a pair of bespoke loafers, the task of bringing his sketch to life fell on Olga Berluti. The pair of shoes, with radical and unconventional lines, thrilled the illustrator and artist. Today, the Andy loafer sums up the collaborative spirit between Berluti and its customers: you are the artist and we provide the craft to bring your vision to life. Shortly, Berluti began designing bags, belts and accessories.

1n 1922, Alessandro son’s Torletto Berluti began taking a keen interest in boot-making and took the brand to greater heights with his insistence on perfection. He was succeeded by his son Talbino Berluti who was driven by the passion to innovate and modernize the brand, and take it overseas. Since the Sixties, Olga helped transform the store into a creative social space where one could often find Karl Lagerfeld or Yves Saint Laurent. The luxury mens brand became acclaimed for the unique patinas in Venezia leather, which owes its existence to Olga who developed it using natural and mineral tanning; this process resulted in supple leather, which made it possible to bring out brilliant colour. Other than Venezia leather, bespoke order of rare leathers was available while adhering to strict rules for preservation of the species.

LVMH acquired Berluti in 1993 as the only menswear brand in its portfolio and hired Haider Ackermann as Creative Director. Ackermann’s menswear was acclaimed for rich color, draped silhouettes and of course, leather and his debut showing for the brand at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2017 was a hit. In March 2018, Ackermann exited and was replaced by former Dior Homme executive Kris Van Assche. His vision was to find a meeting ground of the contemporary and the hand-crafted brand sensibility. Per Vogue, Van Assche explained, ‘I have always wanted to build bridges between the savoir faire, the heritage of a house, and my clear-cut contemporary vision. [Berluti CEO] Antoine Arnault spoke to me of his ambitions for Berluti, and it is with great pleasure that I accept this new challenge, which fits perfectly with my own will and vision.”

The brand focuses on ethical fashion. Whether of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, most of the raw materials used to manufacture Berluti products come from nature. To return what it has borrowed from nature, the brand is committed to adopting a supply chain that contributes to the regeneration of biodiversity. Protecting resources and climate, respecting animal welfare, fighting deforestation, eliminating hazardous chemicals and reducing air and water pollution are key priorities. 87 per cent of the strategic materials currently used by the brand have been certified to meet the strictest standards. This will apply to all of these countries by 2026.

Vision

Berluti envisions bringing the consumers’ designs to life with their artisanal skill set and creativity. Since 1895 the luxury menswear brand has cultivated its own unique style by bringing together audacity, fantasy and classicism. Expertise in shape, leather patinas, fabric selection and precision of cut are the signatures of the ideal male wardrobe.

Since its inception in 1895, Berluti has cultivated a distinctive style that ombines audacity, fantasy, and classicism. This has allowed the brand to stand out in the luxury menswear market, offering pieces that are not only timeless but also injected with a sense of boldness and imagination. Berluti’s approach is about pushing the boundaries of traditional menswear while maintaining a deep respect for the classic elements that have defined masculine elegance for over a century.

Whether through bespoke shoes, tailored suits, or finely crafted accessories, Berluti’s commitment to excellence ensures that each piece not only meets but exceeds the expectations of those who seek the finest in luxury menswear.

Mission Statement

Luxury menswear brand Berluti’s mission is to challenge the boundaries of craftsmanship. Berluti has been making shoes for the elegant man since it was founded. The Duke of Windsor, Jean Cocteau, Andy Warhol… The greatest clients walked through the House’s doors, each one passionate about and captivated by the timeless elegance of these exceptional shoes, elevated to the rank of works of art.

Offbeat classicism and technical virtuosity are keynotes of the House, while its character remains the same. Its story began at the end of the nineteenth century, when a thirty-year-old Italian brought his creative energy to Paris in order to practice his craft as a master shoemaker. He named his first model, a lace-up shoe, after himself, Alessandro, and the House took his surname, Berluti. Since then, every generation of the House has cultivated exceptional savoir-faire in the mastery of form and working with leather and patinas. The result is models that are incomparably elegant and comfortable.

But more than simply a prestigious shoemaker, Berluti’s vision has always been characterised by a a certain art de vivre. Naturally, new areas of expression have been explored: leather goods in 2005, and in 2011 a ready-to-wear line was launched.

Products and Services

Berluti designs and retails men’s shoes, belts, bags, wallets as well as bespoke and ready-to-wear menswear, with each piece reflecting Berluti’s commitment to superior craftsmanship and timeless style. Whether it’s the intricate leather patinas on their shoes or the fine detailing on their accessories, Berluti ensures that every product embodies the perfect blend of elegance and functionality.

Hand-assembled and customised right from the design to the choice of leather and patinas, Berluti bespoke shoes combine comfort and unique flair. As opposed to ready-to-wear shoes, the client is at the center of the process, and the future shoe will be created according to the morphology of his foot. Shape, soles, colors… everything is adapted to the client’s specifications. This includes the choice of leather – from the emblematic Venezia leather to more exotic hides. Last-maker, pattern-maker, cutter, stitcher… the craftsmen in the bespoke workshops will have carried out over 250 operations in order to offer their client the perfect shoe.

Berluti’s bespoke service allows clients to create garments tailored to their exact specifications, offering a unique opportunity to design pieces that reflect individual style and fit. For those who prefer the convenience of ready-to-wear, Berluti’s collections are thoughtfully designed to offer sophisticated, high-quality options that suit a variety of tastes and occasions

Awards and Recognition

Berluti has earned a distinguished reputation in the luxury fashion industry, recognized for its unparalleled craftsmanship and innovative approach to menswear. With a legacy that spans over a century, the menswear brand is celebrated for its exquisite leather goods and finely tailored garments. The luxury brand’s dedication to quality and its ability to merge tradition with modernity have positioned it as a leading name in the world of luxury, attracting a loyal clientele that includes some of the most discerning fashion connoisseurs globally. Berluti’s products are often seen as symbols of sophistication and exclusivity, with their bespoke services further elevating their status within the luxury market.

 References

• Official website Berluti
• At Berluti, Mixed Messages BoF
• Kris Van Assche on Rebooting Berluti Vogue
• LVMH Acquires Taste for Bespoke WSJ
• Facebook page of Berluti Facebook
• His and Hers at Berluti BoF
• Berluti Creative Director Haider Ackermann BoF
• Berluti Spring 2024 Menswear Vogue
• Instagram page of Berluti Instagram
• Berluti’s large production site Fashion Network
• Twitter page of Berluti Twitter
• Alessandro Sartori Exits Berluti WWD
• Ackermann exits Berluti The New York Times
• Berluti’s ’80s-Inspired Sneaker Is Extremely Expensive—And Ridiculously Good Esquire
• LinkedIn page of Berluti LinkedIn
• When Andy Warhol met Berluti Sotheby’s
• Youtube channel of Berluti Youtube
• Berluti Debuts Collaboration With Globe-Trotter In Paris Forbes
• Wiki page of Berluti Wikipedia
• Berluti: At Their Feet Rizzoli