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Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla

Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla is an Indian fashion brand

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  • Fashion
  • New Dehli
  • clothing, apparel
  • Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla
  • 1987

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Summary

Indian luxury fashion brand Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla is firmly entrenched in heritage textile craft and ancient handembroidery. Founders Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla are acclaimed as textile revivalists creating luxury contemporary collections year upon year using designs with an Indian ethos of hand weaving and hand crafting. The recent acquisition of the 51 per cent majority stake by Reliance Brands Limited will accelerate the global expansion plans of the couture house.

History

Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla have come a long way in over three decades. Post high school graduation Abu Jani applied for Art School but when it didn’t meet with success he diversified into a career in fashion design. Sandeep Khosla, who was born in Kapurthala- Punjab began his career in his family’s leather business which is where he first became interested in fashion. He later relocated to New Delhi and established his own label, ‘Limelight.’

In 1986, the duo happened to meet by pure coincidence and after hours of conversation and camaraderie made the decision of launching a boutique named Mata Hari, one of the first of its kind in Mumbai. Soon after they were one of the five Indian fashion designers approached by Tarun Tahiliani for his multi-brand fashion house- Ensemble.

“Our label is known for reviving traditional techniques like chikankari, mirror work and zardozi, among others. How do you reinvent these to appeal to the modern Indian woman” the duo tell Vogue. “…it was our first trip to Lucknow that ignited our imagination and mission to revive and reinvent chikankari. The modern Indian woman, much like Indian women through the ages, are delighted by beauty, by dressing up and by celebrating their femininity through their clothes and accessories. It isn’t a case of creating something that appeals to them. It’s about creating something appealing that they will naturally be drawn to.”

A trip to Amritsar was all they needed to create a successful line for Harrods in the late Eighties: their woollen shawls enhanced with intricate zardozi work sold out in no time. Other notable global projects include a collaboration with actor Michael Caine’s wife Shakira and their stand-alone store in London’s Beauchamp Place.

The duo’s pret line Gulabo was an instant hit. Per Pernia’s Pop Up: “The label experiments with patterns and textures to create a timeless collection suitable for everyday or special occasion wear. The label specialises in mirror work, gota patti and resham which Abu and Sandeep have used to differentiate their work for years. Gulabo by Abu Sandeep aims to adorn every closet with their unique designs.”

Besides Gulabo there is a menswear line titled Mard. ASAL by Abu Sandeep is diffusion wear that carries all the hallmarks and sensibilities of the duo’s haute couture but diffused to reach a wider and different demographic. And Khosla Jani is a western wear label steeped in old Hollywood. Besides fashion, the duo love doing interiors and their furniture line debuted in 1993 at Bombay’s Bajaj Gallery.

The recent acquisition of the 51 per cent majority stake by Reliance Brands Limited will accelerate the global expansion plans of the couture house. Per Vogue: “Its 35-year-old legacy receives another illustrious foil of success—a strategic partnership with Reliance Brands Limited offering a 51 per cent majority stake in the couture house and all its supplementary offerings, including Gulabo by Abu Sandeep, ASAL by Abu Sandeep and Mard by Abu Sandeep.”

So, what are the couturiers seeking from their partnership? Per Vogue: ““Expansion, expansion and expansion,” quips Khosla and adds “We have Gulabo by Abu Sandeep, ASAL by Abu Sandeep, Mard by Abu Sandeep and Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla itself, but there’s accessories, jewellery, shoes and perfume… With RBL onboard with us we are going to turn all this into a reality.” It comes as little surprise then that their shared vision for the future of the partnership is rooted in creativity. “The mandate is to go as creative as we want and to dream that big dream—our shared vision is dreaming of that victory together” adds Jani.”

Mission

The mission of Indian luxury fashion brand Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla is to revive and celebrate the rich heritage of traditional Indian textile techniques, such as chikankari, zardozi, and mirror work. These ancient art forms, deeply rooted in India’s cultural fabric, are reinterpreted through the brand’s designs, ensuring that age-old craftsmanship continues to thrive in the modern era.

At the heart of the brand’s mission is the desire to create contemporary collections that captivate the modern Indian woman. By fusing intricate, handworked techniques with modern silhouettes and styles, the duo behind the luxury brand ensure their designs are both timeless and relevant. Each piece becomes a symbol of artistry, designed to be appreciated by women who appreciate beauty, tradition, and innovation.

Ultimately, the brand seeks to bridge the gap between the past and the present, offering collections that not only honor the craftsmanship of India’s textile heritage but also reflect the evolving tastes of today’s global Indian women. Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla aims to be a beacon for those who desire exquisite, hand-embroidered pieces that make a powerful, elegant statement.

Vision

Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla envision a future where indigenous textile crafts are not only preserved but flourish through its usage in haute couture and ready to wear. Their commitment lies in reinterpreting these traditional techniques, such as chikankari and zardozi, into contemporary styles that speak to a global audience. By doing so, they aim to create a resurgence of heritage crafts that are at risk of fading, ensuring their relevance in modern fashion.

The luxury brand’s vision is fueled by an unrelenting passion for discovering and mastering the diverse textile traditions of India. The designers have journeyed to the farthest corners of the country, learning directly from artisans who have passed down these crafts through generations. By integrating these rich traditions into their designs, they breathe new life into ancient art forms, elevating them within their luxurious collections.

Through their work, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla aspire to position India as a leader in the global fashion industry by offering collections that are deeply rooted in the country’s textile heritage. Their vision extends beyond fashion—it is a celebration of craftsmanship, artistry, and the enduring legacy of Indian culture. In doing so, they seek to inspire future generations of designers and consumers to cherish and protect these valuable traditions.

Products and Services

Besides the signature haute couture line, design duo Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla launched pret line Gulabo-  menswear line Mard- diffusion line ASAL by Abu Sandeep and western wear line Khosla Jani steeped in old Hollywood. Besides fashion, the duo love doing interiors and their furniture line debuted in 1993 at Bombay’s Bajaj Gallery.

Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla was a milestone. Per Explosive Fashion: “Ladies may be inclined to take a second look at draped gowns hand embroidered with resham silk. Or sensuous saris with crystallised appliqué. The looks crafted from duchess satin, organza and net had force. As did the rest of this collection. Riffing off Disco, and nostalgic for a gold jumpsuit they had designed for the late Bollywood icon Parveen Babi, the show progressed from cocktail dresses with silver threadwork and sinuous gowns with lace or floral threadwork to ones that expressed just the kind of artful madness that people crave from the brand…”

Awards and Recognition

Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla is acclaimed for its ability to strike the perfect balance between the transformation of and reverence for tradition textiles and textile techniques. The duo opened India Bridal Week with a showing that paid homage to Varanasi’s ancient weaves, setting it to an everything-old-is-new-again path. A theatrical set recreated ghats at the banks of the Ganges but the designers showcased the decades-old weaves and motifs that the city is famed for, reinterpreted — transformation of ancient weaves into silhouettes that appeal to a modern palate.

References