Comme Des Garcons

Summary

Japanese fashion brand Comme des Garçons was founded in 1969 by fashion designer Rei Kawakubo. Recognised for its avant-garde and innovative approach to fashion, Comme des Garçons challenges traditional notions of design, often combining deconstructionist techniques with experimental silhouettes. Headquartered in Tokyo, the luxury brand has established a significant global presence with flagship stores in Paris, New York, London, and Tokyo. Today it is celebrated not only for its unique fashion but also for its unique collaborations with other fashion brands and its influential sub-labels.

History

Founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, but not incorporated as a company until 1973, Comme des Garçons initially started as a womenswear label. The name, translating to “like boys” in French, reflects the brand’s androgynous and rebellious approach to fashion, challenging traditional gender norms. Kawakubo, who was initially trained in fine art and literature, not fashion design, brought an unconventional perspective to the fashion industry.

The luxury brand debuted its first collection in Tokyo in 1973 and quickly gained a cult following in Japan for its monochromatic palette, asymmetrical cuts, and non-conformist designs. In 1981, Comme des Garçons made its international debut in Paris, where it shocked the fashion world with its anti-fashion aesthetics, including distressed fabrics, oversized silhouettes, and a predominance of black, earning the label “Hiroshima Chic” from critics.

Per Elle: ‘Her runway collections veer from Edward Scissorhands–meets–Victoriana mourning gowns one season to cartoon caricatures of gauze-wrapped mummies the next, with a Dada-esque wedding dress here and a rockabilly rebel-with-a-cause there, all of which, she will tell you, are strictly journalists’ projections and interpretations.’

Over the years, Comme des Garçons has expanded to include diverse sub-labels and collaborations. Notable sub-brands include Comme des Garçons Homme, focusing on menswear, Comme des Garçons Play, a more accessible line with iconic heart-shaped logo designs, and Comme des Garçons Noir, which emphasises the brand’s signature dark aesthetic. The most prominent partnerships include collaborations with Nike, Converse, Supreme, Louis Vuitton, and even furniture brand Artek. These partnerships have allowed it to combine its avant-garde style with mainstream appeal, broadening its reach to a wider audience.

Per Vogue: ‘On the runway it remains fiercely conceptual, in the stores it is surprisingly approachable, and to those who put it on a pedestal—a web of intellectual fashion consumers—Comme des Garçons will always be a purist brand that can only be looked up to.’

In addition to apparel and accessories, Comme des Garçons entered the perfume industry, launching its first fragrance in 1994. Its perfumes are as unconventional as its designs, with unusual notes such as gunpowder, tar, and ink. The fragrance line has become an integral part of the luxury brand’s identity. In the early 2000s, the brand expanded further by opening the first Dover Street Market in London, a concept retail store combining luxury fashion and streetwear brands. This venture has since grown, with locations in New York, Tokyo, Los Angeles, and Beijing, solidifying the brand’s influence in the global retail space.

Though the company remains independently owned, Rei Kawakubo has allowed collaborations with corporate brands, breaking boundaries between high fashion and commercial retail. This balance of exclusivity and accessibility is a testament to Kawakubo’s ability to adapt to changing consumer demands while staying true to the brand’s roots.

Kawakubo’s unapologetic approach to creative expression continues to inspire and influence the fashion industry. Per Elle: ‘In a world where shows have become live-stream circuses, hers are still a rarefied experience, reminiscent more of a ’70s art performance than a traditional runway presentation. Models inhabit the world she creates with exquisite stillness; periods of intense silence are punctuated by startling, intermittent outbursts, from overwrought piano sonatas to migraine- or laughter-inducing soundscapes.’

Vision

Rei Kawakubo’s vision for Comme des Garçons is rooted in redefining fashion as an art form. She seeks to create designs that provoke thought and challenge conventional design aesthetics, prioritising individuality and innovation over fleeting trends. Kawakubo’s approach is rooted in disrupting traditional ideas of beauty, often using deconstruction, asymmetry, and unconventional materials to create garments that inspire emotional and intellectual responses.

Her vision extends beyond fashion, aiming to build a creative ecosystem that fosters collaboration, diversity, and the freedom of expression, ultimately redefining how people perceive clothing and its role in culture. Kawakubo’s goal is to create clothing that is thought-provoking and meaningful, pushing consumers to see fashion as an art form rather than merely functional attire.

This commitment to intellectual and artistic design sets it apart, appealing to a clientele that values originality and depth. The luxury fashion brand also envisions bridging cultural divides through its collaborations, creating a global community of like-minded individuals who appreciate innovative design.

Mission Statement

Comme des Garçons’ mission is to create avant-garde fashion that challenges societal norms and inspires individual expression. Rei Kawakubo has emphasised that the brand does not aim to cater to mass-market appeal but instead focuses on cultivating a niche audience that values bold and unconventional designs. Additionally, the mission includes fostering a sense of community within the fashion world by collaborating with designers, artists, and brands across diverse disciplines. This collaborative approach aligns with CdG’s commitment to innovation and inclusivity in its creative process.

Products and Services

Comme des Garçons produces a wide array of products, ranging from women’s and men’s clothing to accessories, fragrances, and footwear. Its designs are characterised by experimental textures, asymmetry, and a colour palette that often emphasises black, white, and red. While some lines are geared towards luxury markets, sub-brands like Comme des Garçons Play offer more casual, accessible options.

Its SS 25 collection was well received. Per WWD: ‘You can read “Uncertain Future” — the title of Rei Kawakubo’s spring 2025 collection for Comme des Garçons — in geopolitical terms, in climate terms, in economic terms … What’s remarkable about Kawakubo is that even when she’s in a dark mood, which is frequently, there is always femininity and prettiness to be found in her clothes. One of her ambulating fitting rooms came tied up in the middle with a big red tulle bow, and you had to smile.’

Beyond clothing, CdG’s fragrance line is a significant part of its portfolio. Known for unique, unconventional scents, the perfume range has gained a cult following among consumers seeking bold and artistic fragrances. Dover Street Market, the brand’s concept retail store, offers a curated shopping experience featuring CdG alongside other avant-garde labels.

Awards and Recognition

Comme des Garçons has garnered global recognition for its revolutionary impact on the fashion industry, consistently challenging traditional design norms with its avant-garde aesthetics. Under the visionary leadership of Rei Kawakubo, the brand has been celebrated for its intellectual approach to fashion, earning accolades such as the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator at the British Fashion Awards in 2017. The Metropolitan Museum of Art further honoured Kawakubo in 2017 with a landmark retrospective, “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between,” making her only the second living designer to receive such an exhibition after Yves Saint Laurent. The exhibition showcased her pioneering designs, cementing her status as one of the most influential figures in contemporary fashion.

Key Team

• Rei Kawakubo – Founder, Creative Director, and President
• Adrian Joffe – CEO of Comme des Garçons and President of Dover Street Market International
• Kei Takahashi – Head of Menswear Design
• Fumito Ganryu – Designer and Head of CdG Homme Line

References

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