Erdem

Summary

London-based Erdem is an independent house of fashion for men and women. Founded in 2005 by fashion designer Erdem Moralioglu, it has carved a niche within the industry with an intriguing interplay of strength and beauty. The house of Erdem is cultured and erudite, underpinned by a belief in the power and skill of craftmanship. Mind and hand work together to bring imagination to life with precision, artistry and the compelling dexterity of the handmade. Respect for traditional skills is combined with an excitement for innovation, in technique and application.

History

British fashion designer Erdem Moralolu was born in Montreal, Quebec, Canada and grew up between Montreal and Birmingham, England. A graduate of Marianopolis College, he undertook Bachelors in fashion from Ryerson University in Toronto and then worked as an intern for Vivienne Westwood.

Aspiring to undertake fashion education in Britain, Erdem applied for Masters at the Royal College of Art in 2000 following which he applied for, and won, a Chevening scholarship from the Foreign and Commonwealth Office. On completion of the course, he worked as a design assistant with Diane von Furstenberg for a short time and then applied for a design competition, ‘Fashion Fringe’, which he won; the prize included a studio space in the East End where he designed a capsule collection, bought by Harrods and pretty soon, launched his own label, Erdem.

There was no looking back. Erdem won the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2010 which provided him with financial assistance to live his dreams, that of opening a store in Mayfair, an e-retail store and producing four collections a year. His design aesthetic is evocative and dramatic, atmospheric and intensely romantic.

Per Vogue, “Erdem is one of the British designers who have changed the perception of the British fashion industry in recent years. London Fashion Week – once thought of as home to a bunch of wildly creative visionaries who, through a combination of wilfulness, naivety and lack of any business strategy, would inevitably crash and burn – is now scrutinised not only for an enviable array of talent and imagination but also as the home of some flourishing twenty-first-century fashion brands.” So, is it a wonder then that his clientele includes Anne Hathaway, Kate Middleton, Michelle Obama, Gwyneth Paltrow and Keira Knightley?

In 2017, he collaborated with H&M for his first ever men’s collection with none other than director Baz Luhrmann creating visuals for the campaign. The following year, Moralolu designed costumes for twenty-four ballet dancers performing in Christopher Wheeldon’s Corybantic Games at the Royal Opera House in London. Per Vanity Fair, “His dresses are feminine studies in contrast, with mixed textiles and bold embellishments, and while he does both high (Bergdorf Goodman, Harvey Nichols) and low (H&M), his heart, he says, lies in fine craftsmanship.”

In 2021, Erdem expanded to designing menswear with a collection of thirty-six looks including wide-leg corduroy pants,  oversized two-piece suits, knits, and of course, floral tees and shorts. “Menswear is something I have always wanted to do and that I’ve thought about doing for a long time,” Moralioglu told GQ. “It was amazing to be able to explore menswear in my language and thrilling to see the Erdem man brought to life.”

He continues: “I have always been interested in the conversation and exchange between male and female expression. As our womenswear collections have expanded, I’ve loved how male members of my team wear pieces in different ways. The boundaries between womenswear and menswear are ever more fluid and exciting. I have imagined my mercurial protagonist having a younger brother; he is wearing her clothes in his own way.”

Vision

Erdem’s vision for his eponymous fashion house is one that celebrates both artistry and intellect, creating a unique intersection of craftsmanship, imagination, and culture. The House of Erdem is renowned for its cultured and erudite approach to fashion, where each collection serves as an expression of refined creativity. Erdem’s vision is deeply rooted in the belief that fashion is not only about clothing, but also about storytelling—each garment evokes a sense of history, art, and emotion.

The luxury fashion brand places a strong emphasis on precision and meticulous craftsmanship, with each piece embodying the balance between timeless elegance and modern sensibility. Erdem’s vision brings fashion to life through the compelling interplay of artistry and the human hand. Central to Erdem’s vision is his deep reverence for craftsmanship, which he sees as the heart of his creative process. His collections are characterized by the intricate use of fabrics, elaborate embroidery, and the delicate merging of textures and patterns, all of which highlight the skill and artistry behind handmade garments.

This respect for traditional craftsmanship is paired with a constant drive to innovate, blending historical techniques with modern technology and experimental approaches. Whether through unique fabric treatments, cutting-edge embroidery techniques, or innovative tailoring, Erdem’s work honors the past while continually pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion.

At the core of Erdem’s vision is the fusion of tradition and innovation, ensuring that his designs are not only aesthetically stunning but also technically groundbreaking. His commitment to bringing imagination to life through skillful craftsmanship allows him to create garments that feel both timeless and of the moment. Erdem envisions a fashion house where the past informs the future, and where each piece tells a compelling story of artistry, precision, and the dexterity of the handmade. Through this vision, Erdem continues to cultivate a fashion house that is cultured, intelligent, and deeply invested in the power of craftsmanship to inspire and transform.

Mission Statement

The mission of the House of Erdem is to create timeless, intellectually inspired fashion that celebrates the artistry of craftsmanship while embracing innovation. Erdem seeks to design garments that transcend fleeting trends, focusing instead on pieces that evoke emotion, tell a story, and become enduring parts of a wearer’s wardrobe. Central to this mission is a commitment to precision and detail, with each garment meticulously crafted to reflect the highest standards of quality and artistry. By combining traditional handcrafting techniques with contemporary design and modern technologies, Erdem strives to push the boundaries of what fashion can achieve, creating collections that are not only beautiful but also technically remarkable.

Erdem’s mission is also rooted in the belief that fashion should honor both the past and the future. The brand places a strong emphasis on preserving traditional craftsmanship, while simultaneously seeking out new ways to innovate in fabric manipulation, embroidery, and tailoring. This dual focus on tradition and innovation is what defines Erdem’s approach to fashion: creating clothing that feels both timeless and progressive. The House of Erdem is dedicated to fostering an appreciation for the artistry behind fashion, offering pieces that not only enhance personal style but also elevate the craft of design itself, ensuring that the work is as intellectually engaging as it is aesthetically beautiful.

Awards and Recognition

In 2014, Erdem Moralıoğlu was named the British Fashion Council’s Women’s Wear Designer of the Year. In 2017, he won International Canadian Designer of the Year at the Canadian Arts and Fashion Awards. He was appointed Member of the Order of the British Empire in the 2020 Birthday Honours for services to fashion.

Products and Services

Erdem’s collections are a reflection of the brand’s commitment to blending historical influences with contemporary design, creating garments that are as timeless as they are innovative. Known for their romantic and often dramatic aesthetic, Erdem’s collections frequently draw inspiration from art, literature, and historical figures, resulting in pieces that tell rich, layered stories.

Each collection is meticulously crafted, showcasing Erdem’s signature use of intricate embroidery, delicate lace, and luxurious fabrics, all combined with modern silhouettes and unexpected design details. His collections are celebrated for their elegance and sophistication, often featuring bold floral prints, delicate textures, and an overall sense of refined femininity. Through a careful balance of tradition and innovation, Erdem creates clothing that feels both nostalgic and forward-thinking, appealing to those who appreciate fashion as an art form.

In addition to its collections, the House of Erdem offers a range of services that emphasize both craftsmanship and a personalized experience for its clientele. One of the standout services is the brand’s bespoke offering, where clients can work closely with Erdem and his team to create custom-made garments tailored to their specific desires. This service highlights Erdem’s commitment to individuality, allowing clients to own one-of-a-kind pieces that are made with the same level of craftsmanship and attention to detail as the ready-to-wear collections. The brand also offers repairs and alterations services, reflecting its dedication to sustainability and longevity, ensuring that each piece can be cherished and worn for years to come.

References

• Official website Erdem
• Erdem Moralioglu NY Times
• Erdem Spring 2024 Vogue
•  Designer Collaboration WWD
• Erdem Leaps Into Men’s Wear for Spring 2022 WWD
• Facebook profile of Erdem Facebook
• Star in the making: Designer Erdem Moralioglu Independent
• What You Should Know About Erdem Moralioglu Vanity Fair
• Erdem’s first menswear collection GQ
• Instagram profile of Erdem Instagram
• What purpose do beautiful clothes serve? Vogue
• Erdem Vogue
• YouTube profile of Erdem Youtube
• Erdem Fall 2021 Vogue
• Erdem Fall 2023 Vogue
• LinkedIn profile of Erdem LinkedIn
• Erdem Style
• Wikipedia profile of Erdem Wikipedia