Summary
What began as millinery is an iconic luxury fashion brand today – mixing legacy codes with a modern edge to create an effortless collection of women’s ready-to-wear and dresses.
History
The story of Halston begins in the refined world of millinery. Born Roy Halston Frowick in Des Moines, Iowa, in 1932, Halston first made his mark as a hat designer. His ascent was meteoric when Jacqueline Kennedy wore one of his pillbox hats to her husband’s presidential inauguration in 1961. At the time, he was head milliner at Bergdorf Goodman, and this moment cemented his reputation as a tastemaker for the elite. But Halston’s vision extended far beyond headwear; he was already laying the groundwork for a brand that would define American fashion in the decades to come.
By the late 1960s, Halston had launched his own ready-to-wear line, embracing a sleek and minimalist aesthetic that felt both luxurious and liberating. In 1969, he opened his first boutique on Madison Avenue, introducing a new kind of glamour—fluid, unstructured silhouettes crafted from sumptuous fabrics like silk, jersey, and ultrasuede. These designs weren’t just fashion; they were a lifestyle. He understood the changing needs of modern women and redefined elegance with a distinctly American ease.
The 1970s saw Halston at his creative and cultural peak. His inner circle—known as the “Halstonettes”—included models and muses like Pat Cleveland, Anjelica Huston, and Bianca Jagger. With their help, Halston transformed the runway into a celebration of diverse, disco-infused beauty. His designs—think plunging halter gowns, caftans, and one-shoulder draped dresses—became synonymous with the Studio 54 era, where he was a regular fixture alongside Andy Warhol, Liza Minnelli, and other icons of the time. Halston didn’t just dress celebrities—he created them.
One of Halston’s most enduring contributions to fashion came with his pioneering use of ultra-suede, a synthetic microfiber fabric that became his signature. His shirtwaist dress in ultrasuede, launched in 1972, was a revelation—modern, practical, and machine-washable. It became a wardrobe staple and remains one of the most iconic garments in American fashion history. With this innovation, Halston proved that functionality and glamour weren’t mutually exclusive.
In 1983, Halston made a groundbreaking but controversial move: he signed a $1 billion licensing deal with JCPenney to create a mass-market line, “Halston III.” Though visionary in its democratization of designer fashion, the partnership was met with industry backlash. High-end retailers like Bergdorf Goodman dropped his main line, viewing the move as a dilution of luxury. Worse still, Halston lost creative control of his brand. By 1984, he was locked out of his own design studio—a tragic twist in a tale once filled with brilliance.
Halston passed away in 1990 from complications related to AIDS, but his influence never waned. Designers such as Tom Ford, Narciso Rodriguez, and Ralph Rucci have all cited him as an influence, drawn to his purity of line and masterful sense of movement. His minimalist aesthetic—once revolutionary—became the foundation for modern American fashion. Though the brand went through years of mismanagement and multiple ownership changes, Halston’s original ethos remained a beacon for future revivals.
In the 2000s and 2010s, Halston underwent several reinventions. Notably, in 2008, Sarah Jessica Parker briefly served as a creative director for a diffusion line, “Halston Heritage,” bringing the brand back into the spotlight. A 2021 Netflix limited series, Halston, starring Ewan McGregor, renewed interest in both the designer and the house he built. Today, Halston’s legacy lives on as a symbol of American elegance—effortless, sensual, and impeccably modern. The brand may have changed hands, but its DNA—luxury without pretense—remains unmistakably Halston.
Halston created strong codes that are quintessential to the brand to this day, as a new team of innovators. Today Halston is a luxury lifestyle brand – mixing legacy codes with a modern edge to create an effortless collection of women’s ready-to-wear and dresses.
Vision
Halston’s vision for his brand was to create a new kind of American luxury—one that was sleek, modern, and liberating. He believed fashion should move with the body, not restrict it, and championed fluid silhouettes, minimal ornamentation, and luxurious yet practical fabrics like jersey and ultrasuede. Halston designed for the confident, contemporary woman, offering her effortless glamour that transcended trends. His work reflected a belief that true elegance came from simplicity and ease, not excess—fashion that was as functional as it was fabulous, and always unmistakably chic.
Mission
The mission of HALSTON is to embody timeless American glamour through modern, minimalist design that celebrates individuality, confidence, and ease. Rooted in the legacy of its founder, the brand is committed to creating sophisticated, high-quality fashion that blends innovation with functionality—offering women refined silhouettes, luxurious fabrics, and effortless elegance for every aspect of their lives.
Key People
Halston
Awards and Recognition
Throughout his career, Halston received numerous awards and accolades that cemented his status as a pioneering force in American fashion. He was a multiple-time Coty Award winner, taking home the prestigious honor in 1967, 1971, and 1972 for his groundbreaking designs and contributions to the industry. In 1974, he was inducted into the Coty Hall of Fame, recognizing his lasting influence on style and innovation. His work was frequently celebrated in major fashion publications and exhibited in museums, including a major retrospective at The Museum of Modern Art in 1972. Decades later, Halston’s legacy continues to be honored as a defining figure in American design, remembered for his visionary minimalism and cultural impact.
References
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- “Netflix’s ‘Halston’ tells the story of the Des Moines-born celebrity designer. Here’s the tale of his Iowa origins”. Des Moines Register.
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- A Big Life in Advertising. New York: Touchstone Simon and Schuster.
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- “Pants Have Come a Long Way And They’re Coming Further”. The New York Times.
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- A Story Lately Told: Coming of Age in Ireland, London, and New York. Simon and Schuster.
- “Exhibitions: The Halstonettes”. Museum at FIT.
- “Top models recall walking Halston shows”. CNN Style.
- Splash of Colors The Destruction of Braniff International Airways. New York: William and Morrow Company
- “FASHION DESIGNER HALSTON, 57, WINNER OF 4 COTY AWARDS, DIES”. The Washington Post.
- “Retailer/Designer Collaborations – The Missing Link”. forbes.
- “Halston’s Penney’s Serenade”. wwd.com.
- “John David Ridge”. Opera Australia.
- “Making It Work; Dig Out the Ultrasuede! Halston’s Coming Back”. The New York Times.
- “DANCE: MARTHA GRAHAM OFFERS WORLD PREMIERE”. The New York Times.
- “Revlon Will Discontinue the Halston Label”. The New York Times.
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