Margaret Howell

Summary

British designer Margaret Howell has a rigorous design aesthetic: the simple utilitarian luxury and ease of dressing both men and women. Her brand retails worldwide and is particularly popular in Japan.

History

In 1969 Margaret Howell graduated from Goldsmiths College with a degree in fine art. Although she aspired to work with BBC as a makeup artist and study interior design at the Royal College of Art, she found her calling in fashion design. After a papier-mâché necklace she had designed got featured in Vogue and commissioned to make a beaded costume for Elizabeth Taylor, she got serious about fashion as her vocation and launched her label in 1970, incorporated as Margaret Howell Limited in 1987.

Under the design direction of Margaret Howell, the company produces classic men’s and women’s apparel crafted from the finest Harris Tweed, Scottish cashmere, Irish linen and corduroy astride a home line produced by specialist manufacturers in the UK and Italy. She has a rigorous design aesthetic: the simple utilitarian luxury and ease of dressing both men and women. Howell made her name with menswear, opening her first store in in London in 1977 through partnership with Joseph Ettedgui.

Buoyed by its success, she opened a self- financed store, with help from her husband Paul Crenshaw, in St Christopher’s Place, London in 1980. A profile in Elle in stated: ‘In her precise and meticulous working methods, Margaret Howell is more a craftsman than an industrialist.’ Jack Nicholson was a fan and insisted on wearing his own Margaret Howell corduroy jacket in the film, ‘The Shining.’

In 1984, she expanded her label overseas, opening stores in Manhattan and Aoyama, Tokyo. However, separation from her husband a few years later led to his withdrawal from the company. The company was restructured in 1990 with the help of Sam Sugure and Richard Craig, who is Managing Director till date. Under the helm of the new management, the design company opened an estimated hundred stores worldwide including London, Paris, Florence and Japan. In 2000, the company set up its own shirt factory in Edmonton. Up next was MHL by Margaret Howell, a workwear inspired label established in 2004.

2007 was a milestone year. For her achievements in fashion, Margaret Howell received a Commander of the Order of the British Empire and was also named Royal Designer of the British Fashion Industry by the Royal Society of Arts. In 210, she was given Honorary Doctorate from the University of the Arts, London. Her flagship pays tribute to designers she admires and is is home to the Anglepoise lamps, Ercol and Ernest Race furniture, Robert Welch cutlery, John Penn architecture works and HA Rothholz graphic art.

For SS21, Sarah Mower, Vogue praised her collection, ‘This season’s offerings don’t look terribly different from the last, or any other, come to that. That’s intrinsic to the beauty of what she does: her concentration on making clothes that fit continuously into the background of lived experience, stoically allowing the bandwagon of fashion to pass her by…’

”I think of myself as a hands-on designer. I’m inspired by the authenticity I can find in nature, people and places, and I think it is the same quality I look for in the materials I choose. For example, the feel of hand-woven Harris tweed and the irregular slub of Irish linen…I like to work with manufacturers who understand and share this passion for make and quality of fabric: specialists such as John Smedley in fine-gauge knitwear, Mackintosh and their part hand-made raincoats, and the Scottish knitting factories that continue their heritage of producing the best cashmere in the world… I enjoy pulling these threads of British tradition, quality and skill together in clothes that are meant to be worn in the real world, where good design is about living with thoughtful style” she reveals about her brand philosophy on her website.

Vision

Margaret Howell’s brand philosophy is deeply rooted in British tradition, craftsmanship, and functional design. She takes pride in weaving these elements together to create clothing that is not only stylish but also highly practical for everyday life. “I enjoy pulling these threads of British tradition, quality, and skill together in clothes that are meant to be worn in the real world, where good design is about living with thoughtful style,” Howell explains on her website.

Her vision is focused on creating garments that prioritize longevity and purpose over trends or fleeting social media attention. Unlike many fashion designers today, Howell’s concern is not with how many likes her pieces garner or how often they are reposted online. Instead, she is committed to crafting timeless clothing that can endure through many seasons, outlasting the fast-paced cycles of fashion fads.

At the core of her work is a realist approach, one that resists external pressures and superficial influences dominating the fashion world today. Margaret Howell’s designs embody a quiet but steadfast refusal to compromise on her principles, maintaining a commitment to functional, long-lasting, and thoughtfully designed apparel.

Mission Statement

Margaret Howell’s mission revolves around the combination of utility and luxury fashion, an approach that is both understated and deeply thoughtful. Her designs reject the conventional idea of luxury as something purely extravagant or indulgent. Instead, Howell redefines luxury as something found in the simplicity of function, quality craftsmanship, and timelessness. Her utilitarian philosophy emphasizes practicality, durability, and everyday wearability – without sacrificing elegance.

Howell believes that true luxury lies in creating clothes that serve a purpose beyond their aesthetic appeal. Every piece in her collection is meticulously designed with careful attention to detail, ensuring not only a beautiful appearance but also comfort, functionality, and longevity. Her garments are built to endure, combining minimalist elegance with practical design elements that make them suitable for real life—whether in urban environments or more relaxed settings.

This utilitarian approach to luxury is driven by the idea that clothes should enhance, not hinder, daily life. Howell’s focus on high-quality materials and expert tailoring ensures that each item can be worn for years, defying the short-lived nature of seasonal trends. She sees luxury not as something flashy or opulent but as a quiet sense of ease that comes from well-made, functional garments designed to be lived in and appreciated for their enduring value.

In essence, Margaret Howell’s mission is to elevate the everyday. She merges utilitarian principles with the subtle sophistication of luxury, creating pieces that are meant to be worn and loved over time, rather than simply admired from afar. This commitment to utility, longevity, and understated elegance stands in stark contrast to the excess and disposability often associated with modern fashion.

Key Team

Founder, Designer: Margaret Howell

Awards and Recognition

Margaret Howell is a British fashion designer who has worked in both men’s and women’s wear over five decades. Over the past fifty-three years since she established her label, the designer has eschewed trends to create collections that transcend age, body shape and gender.

Products and services

Margaret Howell’s products embody a perfect balance of utility, craftsmanship, and understated luxury. Her clothing collections for both men and women are defined by clean lines, timeless silhouettes, and the use of high-quality natural fabrics like cotton, wool, and linen. Each piece is meticulously designed to combine elegance with functionality, offering versatile garments that are comfortable, durable, and suitable for everyday wear. From tailored jackets and shirts to knitwear and trousers, Howell’s designs focus on creating pieces that transcend trends, ensuring longevity in both style and construction. Her use of neutral tones and simple, refined detailing reflects a commitment to minimalism, allowing the quality of materials and craftsmanship to take center stage.

In addition to her clothing, Howell offers a range of footwear and accessories that mirror the same principles of durability and practicality. Items like leather brogues, boots, belts, and bags are crafted with the same attention to detail and quality materials. Howell also extends her design ethos through collaborations with traditional British artisans, producing limited-edition pieces that emphasize craftsmanship and heritage. Her retail experience, characterized by serene, minimalist stores, offers customers a personalized and thoughtful approach to shopping. The brand’s dedication to sustainability is also evident, with a focus on ethical production and the use of natural, long-lasting materials, reflecting Howell’s mission to create items designed for real-life utility and timeless appeal.

References

• Official website Margaret Howell
• Margaret Howell is celebrating 50 years of design GQ
• Margaret Howell SS21 Vogue
• Brand history Margaret Howell
• Twitter profile of Margaret Howell Twitter
• Margaret Howell AW14 Ella Fowells
• The Most White-Hot Designer In London GQ
• What I’ve learnt: Margaret Howell Esquire
• Margaret Howell AW21 Vogue
• Facebook profile of Margaret Howell Facebook
• How Margaret Howell Established A Life Uniform For The World Vogue
• Instagram profile of Margaret Howell Instagram
• Youtube profile of Margaret Howell Youtube
• Margaret Howell interview Gold
• LinkedIn profile of Margaret Howell LinkedIn
• Margaret Howell Inventory
• Wikipedia profile of Margaret Howell Wikipedia
• Alasdair McLellan shoots Margaret Howell’s AW15 campaign Its Nice That
• Margaret Howell A/W 15 Harpers Bazaar