McQueen

Summary

McQueen is a British luxury house founded by the late visionary designer Lee Alexander McQueen. Established in London in 1992, the Maison was acquired by the Kering Group in 2001. In 2010, Sarah Burton was named Creative Director, having worked alongside McQueen for over 14 years. Since December 2023, however, Seán McGirr has taken the creative reins. Today, with a design studio and atelier based in London, the house upholds its foundational values, creative vision and incisive tailoring.

HISTORY

Alexander McQueen, born on March 17, 1969, in Lewisham, London, founded his fashion brand in 1992 after graduating from the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. Rooted in Lee Alexander McQueen’s training on Savile Row, the house pushes the boundaries of British tailoring traditions, emphasising cut, proportion and silhouette.

Inspiration is often drawn from British heritage and contemporary culture. McQueen became renowned for a theatrical and innovative approach, with shows that were emotionally impactful and often provocative, creating a sense of spectacle. McQueen’s work was admired for its highly original blend of subversion and tradition, evident from the outset in his ‘Bumster’ trousers, sharp frock coats, corroded fabrics, slashed leather and shredded, flesh-revealing lace. He received a lot of praise with his unique approach to tailoring and his theatrical runway shows that often challenged societal norms. McQueen’s debut collection, “London as a Dress,” portrayed a rebellious spirit, using traditional techniques in an unconventional manner.

McQueen’s Savile Row training would inform his career: “Everything I do is based on tailoring”, he said. This background in precision tailoring, combined with the more improvised dressmaking and draping techniques he learned in the atelier at Givenchy – paved the way for his innovative experiments with cutting and construction. “Because I was a tailor, I didn’t totally understand softness, or lightness. I learned lightness at Givenchy. I was a tailor at Savile Row. At Givenchy I learned to soften. For me, it was an education. As a designer I could have left it behind. But working at Givenchy helped me learn my craft.”

Over the years, McQueen has collaborated with artists and celebrities, including Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci and the late pop star David Bowie, further solidifying the brand’s avant-garde image. In January 2003, Alexander McQueen collaborated with the perfumer Jacques Cavallier to launch his first fragrance, Kingdom. The company launched its second fragrance, My Queen, three years later in 2006. On 10 October 2003, Alexander McQueen collaborated with Michael Clark to stage the Spring 2004 collection.

Per Victoria And Albert Museum: ‘One of the defining features of Alexander McQueen’s collections was their far-reaching historicism. The 1995 Highland Rape collection was informed by his Scottish heritage, referencing the Highland Clearances of the 18th and 19th centuries, when tenants in the Scottish Highlands were forcefully evicted. McQueen was particularly inspired by the 19th century, drawing frequently on Victorian Gothic. Radical re-presentations of historical narratives continued throughout his career. “I like to challenge history”, he stated in the 2008 BBC television series British Style Genius, emphasising the semi-autobiographical nature of some of his historical subject choices.’

In 2008, Alexander McQueen collaborated with Samsonite to produce the Black Label luggage collection using a mould of a human ribcage and sternum on the front and spine on the back. Other pieces in the collection apply animal patterns to the bags’ skin using laser cutting technology. With the catwalk presentations, Alexander McQueen collaborated with Philip Treacy to produce hats for the Spring 2008 collection, and again with the Fall 2009 collection. The same year, the McQ diffusion line collaborated with the retailer Target as McQ for Target.

Following the untimely death of Alexander McQueen in February 2010, Sarah Burton, who had previously worked as his assistant, took the helm as creative director. Burton’s first collection post-McQueen’s passing, the Autumn/Winter 2010 line, paid homage to the founding designer while steering the luxury fashion brand into uncharted territories. Under her leadership, several iconic collections emerged, such as the royal wedding dress worn by Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, in 2011.

Sustainability has become a critical focus for McQueen in recent years, with the brand implementing several initiatives to reduce its environmental impact. The launch of the “McQueen’s Consciously Creative” programme includes practices like using organic and recycled materials, while packaging is increasingly designed to be eco-friendly. The brand has also advocated for a more circular economy within fashion, collaborating with initiatives to support sustainable practices throughout the industry.

McQueen has undergone various acquisitions since its creation, the most significant being its acquisition by the French luxury group Kering in 2001, which provided the brand with the resources and global platform to expand its presence significantly. Under Kering, McQueen has continued to thrive, balancing the legacy of Alexander McQueen with wearable creations that appeal to modern luxury consumers.

The luxury brand’s runways are celebrated for their dramatic storytelling, with shows that often address cultural and political themes. From the captivating “Plato’s Atlantis” collection in 2010 to the gender-fluid “Spring/Summer 2016” collection, McQueen has consistently used fashion as a medium of expression, evoking strong emotions and dialogues around identity, nature, and society.

In recent years, McQueen has embraced the digital age, launching a virtual reality experience for its Spring/Summer 2021 collection that showcased the intersection of technology and fashion. By reaching a global audience through digital platforms, the brand remains relevant while appealing to a younger demographic. Creative Director Seán McGirr articulates McQueen’s core values with an energy that connects the house’s heritage with contemporary culture.

VISION

Alexander McQueen envisioned challenging the conventional norms of fashion while expressing a deep narrative through each piece. He believed that fashion should be an art form, using the runway as a theatrical space to explore complex themes and emotions.

Under Sarah Burton’s direction, the vision has evolved to incorporate sustainability and ethical practices. Recognising the urgent need for environmental consciousness, Burton strives to combine the luxury brand’s historical roots with a progressive outlook, acknowledging that fashion can be beautiful while being responsible.

Moreover, McQueen’s vision includes promoting inclusivity and diversity within the fashion industry. By showcasing models from diverse backgrounds and celebrating individual identity, the luxury fashion brand seeks to create a more equitable fashion landscape. This approach aligns with Alexander McQueen’s original ethos of challenging societal boundaries and, thus, extends the brand’s narrative beyond clothing into progressive social commentary.

MISSION STATEMENT

McQueen’s mission is to honour the legacy of its founder, Alexander McQueen, by crafting bold and innovative designs that push the boundaries of fashion. The brand aims to evoke emotional connections, inspiring individuals to appreciate the artistry and storytelling embedded in each collection. Drawing upon the unique blend of craftsmanship and creativity, McQueen strives to create garments that serve not only as fashion but as cultural narratives reflective of contemporary society.

Additionally, McQueen is dedicated to sustainability and ethical operations. The mission includes prioritising responsible sourcing of materials and reducing environmental impact through innovative practices. By adopting a holistic approach to sustainability, the brand aspires to lead by example within the luxury fashion sector, encouraging others to embrace environmentally conscious values.

Lastly, McQueen is committed to fostering inclusivity and celebrating diversity. The mission encompasses promoting representation across all facets of fashion, ensuring that all individuals feel empowered and valued. By embracing a variety of voices and perspectives, McQueen seeks to redefine beauty standards and encourage personal expression through fashion, forging a deeper connection with its audience.

EXECUTIVE BOARD

• Seán McGirr – Creative Director
• François-Henri Pinault – CEO (Kering Group)
• Marie-Claire Bravo – COO
• Paola Gallo – Chief Financial Officer

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

From his Central Saint Martins postgraduate collection of 1992 to his final runway presentation, which took place after his death in February 2010, McQueen challenged and expanded the understanding of fashion  to a conceptual expression of culture. The ready-to-wear collections exemplify the luxury brand’s signature combination of edgy aesthetics and craftsmanship. McQueen is also recognised for its fashion accessories. Iconic pieces such as the “Skull Scarf” and the “Armadillo Boots” are characterised by a mix of elegance and eccentricity.

McQueen also delves into the realm of haute couture with its bespoke collections, which are created for select clientele. These pieces, often showcased in exclusive couture shows, represent the pinnacle of luxury fashion, demonstrating the brand’s commitment to artisanal techniques and bespoke craftsmanship. Through all its products and services, McQueen continues to uphold its reputation as a trailblazer in the fashion industry while innovating to keep pace with the evolving tastes of its consumers.

AWARDS AND RECOGNITION

McQueen has received several awards over the years, including the title of British Designer of the Year by the British Fashion Council four times between 1996 and 2001. In 2003, he was awarded a CBE for his services to the fashion industry and also named International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. This underscores McQueen’s impact on luxury fashion, celebrating its artistic brilliance and its ability to connect with audiences across the globe. Additionally, McQueen is praised for its commitment to sustainability and ethical practices. These acknowledgements reinforce the luxury fashion brand’s dedication to being a leader in responsible fashion, aligning with contemporary consumer values and honouring the legacy of Alexander McQueen’s visionary approach to art and design.