Rick Owens

Summary

Richard Saturnino Owens is an American fashion designer from Porterville, California. In addition to his main line of apparel and accessories renowned for its dark design aesthetic, Owens has a furniture line and a number of diffusion lines.

History

American-born, Paris-based fashion designer Richard Saturnino Owen, better known as Rick Owens, began his journey from knock-offs to launching a fierce independent fashion label and evolved it to a globally-acclaimed fashion brand. Owens dropped out of Otis College of Art and Design to undertake a course in pattern making which led him to a position cutting patterns for knocked-off designerwear!! In 1990, he was hired as pattern-maker by fashion designer Michelle Lamy. Per Los Angeles Times, “Patti Davis, daughter of Ronald Reagan, was wearing Lamy, including a T-shirt with seams that show on the outside. In 1987 she grossed $6 million in retail sales.” What followed was right out of a fairytale. The two fell in love. Owens left his boyfriend, Lamy left her husband, and the two got married.

Rick Owens debuted his womenswear in 1994 and retailed it in LA-based avant garde boutique Charles Gallay, which also housed Versace, Mugler and Margiela. The goth-chic label became a hot-seller when he showcased at New York Fashion Week SS02, with his collection sponsored by Vogue after supermodel Kate Moss was featured wearing his leather jacket in French Vogue earlier that year. There was no looking back. In 2001, Rick Owens inked a distribution deal with Eo Bocci Associati and the designer’s production shifted to Italy. After a devastating mugging in LA, the couple moved to Paris in 2003. Owens was appointed artistic director at French fur company Revillon and remained with the brand for a few years before shifting focus on his own brand.

In 2004, Owens debuted his menswear, which became a rage due to his twist on classic silhouettes, particularly the gauzy bombers and sharp shouldered blazers. The first flagship opened in Paris followed by stores in London, Milan, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Seoul, New York, Miami and LA. What was commendable is that the brand expansion happened organically through increased demand, not external finance. In July 2005, Rick Owens diversified the brand with a line of furniture designed using raw plywood, resin, fibreglass, cashmere and marble. The following year, he launched a sneaker collection, Dustulator Dunk. Though it became a cult, it also made headlines due to a potential lawsuit with Nike.

The designer was honoured twice by CFDA — Perry Ellis Award for Emerging Talent 2002 and Lifetime Achievement Award 2017. Other notable awards include Cooper-Hewitt Design Award for Fashion Design and Fashion Group International’s Rule Breaker Award, both in 2007. Per ‘Business of Fashion’, “In 2010, Owenscorp revenue was around $40 million. In 2012, that number was closer to $70 million; in 2013 it exceeded $100 million… And, though he once flirted with the idea of selling to an unnamed conglomerate, Owens has grown his house without any outside help.”

In 2013, Owens collaborated with Adidas to design sneakers, creating new models, reimagining classics and incorporating new technology in footwear that was in sync with his runway collections. The collaboration came to a close in August 2017. Rick Owens expanded his core audience with diffusion lines based on streetwear, work wear and fur. His museum retrospective, “Subhuman Inhuman Superhuman”, opened at Triennale di Milano, where he described his work in the exhibit pamphlet: “‘I would lay a black glittering turd on the white landscape of conformity’. I wrote this shamelessly bombastic line over twenty years ago and it’s a very simplistic summary of what I initially set out to do. Over the years, this defiance softened into a more tender expression. If I could ever so slightly blur the rigid parameters of what is considered beautiful or aesthetically acceptable I will have fulfilled any potential I had to make a positive contribution in this world.”

Rick Owens continues to be heralded as a legend. Post-pandemic, his SS21 collection was well received. Per Vogue, “The fascination of an Owens show is that as dark and disturbing as his theme may be—as hellish as we all feel—he inevitably leaves you galvanised. ‘In the face of adversity,’ he said, music pounding in the background, ‘we have to pull ourselves up’.”

Vision

Rick Owens’ vision as a fashion designer is rooted in the concept of pushing the boundaries of conventional fashion through avant-garde expression. He has created a distinct design aesthetic characterized by sharp architectural lines combined with flowing, asymmetrical designs. Owens’ work consistently showcases a largely monochromatic palette, which emphasizes his gothic, rebellious overtones. This minimalism, however, is far from simple; it is filled with depth and meaning, allowing his clothing to exude both power and mystery.

His designs, while avant-garde, are also grounded in a sense of timelessness. Owens has managed to merge the extreme and the wearable, infusing his collections with both extravagance and functionality. His use of dark colors, raw materials, and experimental textures reflects a consistent thematic exploration of beauty through darkness, and his ability to challenge conventional standards of aesthetics.

Owens’ strong personality and authentic style extend beyond fashion; he has earned the title “Lord of Darkness” due to his consistent commitment to gothic influences, yet his work is not constrained to this label. Through his designs, he expresses a broader philosophical outlook—defying conformity and embracing individuality. His vision has always been about creating a world where clothing acts as a form of personal armor, a way to communicate one’s inner strength and complexity.

The juxtaposition of minimalism and extravagance in his collections has left an indelible mark on design history. Owens’ ability to blur the lines between fashion and art, while maintaining an aura of mystery and intensity, positions him as one of the most influential and enigmatic designers of our time. His work not only influences the fashion industry but also serves as a cultural statement, constantly reinterpreting ideas of beauty, rebellion, and identity.

Mission Statement

Rick Owens’ mission as a fashion designer is about redefining the boundaries of fashion by merging art, philosophy, and personal expression into a cohesive vision. At its core, his mission is to challenge and subvert conventional norms of beauty, offering an alternative narrative that embraces darkness, imperfection, and individuality. Owens seeks to empower people to express themselves authentically, using his designs as a form of personal armor that communicates strength, mystery, and rebellion.

One of the key components of Owens’ mission is to provoke thought through his body of work. He often uses fashion as a medium to explore existential themes such as mortality, identity, and societal conformity. His creations—whether they be sharp-shouldered jackets, oversized bombers, or draped, flowing garments—are designed to make a statement, urging the wearer and the observer to reconsider traditional ideas of fashion and aesthetics. Owens’ consistent use of a monochromatic, primarily black palette reflects his exploration of the darker aspects of life, both literally and metaphorically, and challenges the mainstream obsession with color and vibrancy.

Sustainability and integrity are also central to his mission. Owens has built a luxury fashion brand that expands organically, without reliance on outside investors, ensuring that his creative vision remains pure and uncompromised. His slow, deliberate approach to growth reflects his commitment to quality, authenticity, and artistic integrity. He also focuses on designing timeless pieces that endure beyond seasonal trends, encouraging consumers to invest in lasting, meaningful fashion rather than transient fads.

Awards and Recognition

The designer was honoured twice by CFDA — Perry Ellis Award for Emerging Talent 2002 and Lifetime Achievement Award 2017. Other notable awards include Cooper-Hewitt Design Award for Fashion Design and Fashion Group International’s Rule Breaker Award, both in 2007.

Products and Services

Rick Owens’ products and services are a reflection of his multi-faceted approach to design, blending fashion, art, and lifestyle into a cohesive brand identity. Beyond his main fashion line, which is renowned for its avant-garde designs, Owens has expanded his creative vision to include a range of diffusion lines and a highly regarded furniture line. Each extension of his luxury brand stays true to his core aesthetic while offering unique variations to reach different audiences and serve various lifestyle needs.

The Rick Owens furniture line includes pieces like chairs, beds, tables, and lighting fixtures, crafted from materials such as plywood, resin, marble, and bronze. Much like his fashion, Owens’ furniture designs are characterized by their stark, monolithic forms and their fusion of brutalist and luxurious elements. His furniture pieces often have a raw, industrial quality, juxtaposed with refined craftsmanship, creating functional art objects that are both imposing and elegant. The furniture line, much like his clothing, carries a unique vision that reflects Owens’ philosophy of beauty through austerity, and these pieces have found a home in high-end galleries, museums, and private collections around the world.

Beyond the tangible products, Rick Owens offers an immersive brand experience through his flagship stores, located in Paris, London, Tokyo, and New York. These stores, much like his designs, are conceived as works of art, reflecting the designer’s stark, gothic aesthetic. The flagships are often designed with brutalist architecture, featuring raw concrete, high ceilings, and minimalist interiors, creating a visually cohesive experience that mirrors the spirit of Owens’ designs.

In essence, Rick Owens has built a multifaceted luxury brand that encompasses not only fashion but also furniture, accessories, and artistic collaborations. Each facet of his offerings reflects his commitment to challenging conventional beauty standards, creating a world where art, fashion, and lifestyle blend seamlessly into a singular, cohesive vision. His expansion into these various areas reinforces his status as a visionary designer, allowing fans of his work to engage with his aesthetic across multiple aspects of their lives.

Leadership Team

Rick Owens: Founder

References

• Official website Betsey Johnson
• Betsey Johnson Betsey Johnson
• How Betsey Johnson built a fashion empire New Yorker
• LinkedIn page of Betsey Johnson LinkedIn
• That girl: Oral history of Betsey Johnson Vogue
• Facebook page of Betsey Johnson Facebook
• CDFA Member CDFA
• Twitter page of Betsey Johnson Twitter
• Betsey Johnson memoir Forbes
• YouTube page of Betsey Johnson YouTube
• Betsey Johnson Receives Award WSJ
• Betsey Johnson and Cyndi Lauper Ms Fabulous
• Instagram page of Betsey Johnson Instagram
• Funny Off-beat designs Google
• Betsey Johnson Still Loves Cheerleaders and the Prom The Cut
• Betsey Johnson’s daughter NY Times
• Wikipedia page of Betsey Johnson Wikipedia
• Betsey Johnson fashions fight against breast cancer USA Today
• A life of celebrating youth NY Times