Sakai

Summary

Sacai is a Japanese luxury fashion brand renowned for its innovative designs that combines contrasting elements to create unique, hybrid garments. Founded in 1999 by Chitose Abe, the brand has been instrumental in redefining the boundaries between casual and formal wear, earning a dedicated global following and influencing contemporary fashion trends.

History

Chitose Abe, born in Gifu Prefecture, Japan, developed an early interest in fashion, influenced by her mother who was a seamstress. She began her career at the Tokyo-based clothing company ‘World’ before joining Comme des Garçons as a pattern cutter under the tutelage of Rei Kawakubo. Abe later contributed to Junya Watanabe’s design team, honing her skills in innovative garment construction.

In 1999, after becoming a mother, Abe sought a creative outlet that would allow her to balance her personal and professional life. This led to the launch of Sacai, named after her maiden name. Initially, Abe operated the luxury fashion brand from her home, focusing on unique knitwear pieces that combined comfort with avant-garde design. Sacai’s early years were marked by steady growth, with the brand gaining attention for its distinctive approach to fashion.

The Sacai men’s collection launched in Spring 2009 is based on the same philosophy and similar approach as Abe’s women’s collection. Carefully crafted staple items for men imbued with a touch of elegance. The Japanese luxury fashion brand started showing at Paris Fashion Week in 2009; by its second season overseas, Sacai had attracted major international clients, including Biffi in Milan, Colette in Paris and Joyce in Hong Kong. Today, the label has close to a hundred stockists worldwide.

Per BoF: ‘Abe owns 100 percent of her business, which allows her complete creative control and freedom to select any commercial considerations she chooses. “My collections are based purely on my creative instincts,” she told BoF. “Maybe I’m an idealist, but I am a firm believer that if you’re producing well-designed products at the right price that your business is destined to flourish.”’

Sacai incorporates the idea of hybridisation through juxtapositions of contrasting textures of fabrics, such as knits with super fine woven and techniques based on reinterpretations of patterns of the garment, transforming the pieces into unexpected shapes and silhouettes. While her collections may appear to be about femininity, Abe’s interest lies in creating clothes that are unique and timeless, innovative and experimental. To Abe, the Sacai collections have a distinctive elegance that is based on transformations of basic and classical items. The result is a collection of items that can transition between myriad occasions.

Per Quartz: “Sacai is known for its technical prowess, with Abe often taking things she likes from two different clothing items (say, a Napoleon collar and a cowboy jacket) and splicing them together to create a whole that is bigger than the sum of its parts. The company works with Japanese factories to create almost every fabric it uses from scratch.”

Sacai opened their first flagship store in September 2011 in Minamiaoyama, Tokyo. Abe chose to work with architect, Sou Fujimoto, who is known for his integration of contrary elements such as nature and artefact, the idea of outside and inside, the new and the old in his work, with which she closely identified with. Additionally the interiors of all of the Sacai stores are designed by GELCHOP, a collage / DIY artist group, that Sacai has regularly collaborated with. The custom furniture within the store uses a combination of seemingly different materials such as wood from vintage furniture, steel, acrylic, or mirror, and joining them together to create bold, new shapes.

Collaborations have played a significant role in Sacai’s evolution. In 2010, Abe collaborated with Moncler, reimagining the brand’s signature downwear with feminine details. This partnership introduced Sacai to a broader audience and showcased Abe’s ability to blend different design philosophies. Another notable collaboration began in 2015 with Nike, where Abe infused Nike’s sportswear with Sacai’s unique aesthetic, resulting in highly sought-after pieces that blurred the lines between athletic wear and high fashion. This partnership has continued over the years, producing innovative designs that resonate with a diverse audience.

In 2017, Sacai introduced its first handbag collection, featuring designs that combined materials like straw and leather, reflecting the brand’s commitment to creating versatile and innovative accessories. Throughout its history, Sacai has maintained its independence, with Abe owning 100% of the company. This autonomy has allowed her to preserve the brand’s creative integrity and continue exploring new design horizons without external constraints.

Sacai is currently available through its flagship stores in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Beijing and Seoul along with specialty stores and department stores around the world.

Vision

Chitose Abe’s vision for Sacai centers on creating garments that are both innovative and wearable. She believes in designing pieces that fit into daily life while offering an element of experimentation. Abe’s approach involves deconstructing and reimagining traditional silhouettes, resulting in designs that challenge conventional fashion norms—masculine and feminine, structured and fluid, casual and formal.

Abe envisions sacai as more than just a fashion label; it is a constantly evolving platform where craftsmanship meets experimentation. Beyond design, Abe’s vision for sacai extends to fostering collaboration and innovation. She partners with brands and creatives from diverse industries—Nike, Jean Paul Gaultier, and The North Face, among others—to merge unique perspectives and challenge the status quo. These collaborations reflect her belief that fashion is a dialogue rather than a static entity.

The designer also emphasises authenticity and longevity over fleeting trends, ensuring that sacai’s pieces are timeless yet ever-evolving. Through this, Abe cements sacai as a brand that continuously reinvents itself, staying at the forefront of contemporary fashion while maintaining a deeply personal and thoughtful approach to design. Innovation is at the heart of Sacai’s vision. Abe continuously experiments with fabric combinations, patterns, and construction techniques to create garments that are entirely unique and timeless.

Mission Statement

Sacai’s mission is to redefine contemporary fashion by combining contrasting elements to create garments that are both innovative and functional. The Japanese brand is dedicated to challenging traditional fashion paradigms, offering pieces that surprise and inspire, while remaining deeply rooted in wearability. Central to this mission is a commitment to craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail. Sacai strives to produce ready to wear that stands the test of time, both in design and durability, ensuring that each piece becomes a cherished part of the wearer’s wardrobe. Furthermore, Sacai aims to foster a sense of individuality and self-expression through its designs. By offering versatile garments that can be styled in myriad ways, the brand empowers individuals to curate their own unique aesthetic, reflecting their personal narratives and experiences.

Executive Board

• Chitose Abe: Founder and Creative Director
• Daisuke Gemma: Brand Director
• Chico Hashimoto: Senior Team Member

Products and Services

Sacai offers a diverse range of products, including women’s and men’s apparel, accessories, and footwear. The brand is renowned for its signature hybrid garments that artfully combine different fabrics, textures, and silhouettes to create pieces that are both avant-garde and practical. Notable collections include the collaboration with Nike, which began in 2015. This partnership has produced innovative designs that merge sportswear aesthetics with high-fashion sensibilities, resulting in highly coveted items such as the hybrid sneakers featuring double tongues and layered Swooshes. In 2017, Sacai expanded its offerings by introducing a handbag collection. These designs often feature a fusion of materials like straw and leather, exemplifying the brand’s commitment to reimagining traditional accessories with a contemporary twist.

Awards and Recognition

Sacai, under the visionary leadership of founder Chitose Abe, has received acclaim from both industry insiders and the global fashion community. The brand’s distinctive approach, characterised by contrasting garments and fabrics, has been instrumental in redefining contemporary fashion. This innovative style has influenced both high fashion and streetwear, leading to collaborations with industry giants such as Nike, Moncler, and Beats by Dre.

In 2024, the brand was highlighted among notable names like The Row, Dries Van Noten, and Bottega Veneta, reflecting a consumer shift towards “quiet luxury” and realistic wardrobe investments. This trend underscores Sacai’s ability to appeal to consumers seeking versatile and enduring pieces. Additionally, Sacai’s Autumn Winter 2025 menswear collection was among the top 10 most-viewed shows on Vogue Runway, indicating sustained interest and engagement from the fashion community.

References

1. Sacai Moves Into Jewellery Women’s Wear Daily 
2. In the Jungle, the Mighty Jungle, With Sacai Women’s Wear Daily 
3. Chitose Abe Business Of Fashion
4. AUTUMN/WINTER 2017 READY-TO-WEAR: Sacai Vogue
5. APC x sacai collab Highsnobiety
6. Official website Sacai
7. Sacai Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Women’s Wear Daily 
8. Tokyo pulls off its strongest fashion week in years Vogue Business
9. The Japanese phrase that led fashion designer Chitose Abe from obscurity to fame Quartz