Schiaparelli

Summary

Elsa Schiaparelli instilled a creative spirit in 20th-century fashion with her inventive imagination and revolutionary vision on sportswear, Haute Couture, art, fragrance, and ordinary elements turned into elaborate creations. Her iconic collaborations with artists like Dalí, Cocteau, Man Ray, Giacometti and Marcel Vertès became legendary. Nowadays, the Maison Schiaparelli cultivates this incredible heritage, offering women of the 21st-century the essence of a bold style and timeless allure.

History

Schiaparelli, one of the most iconic names in fashion, was founded in 1927 by Elsa Schiaparelli, an Italian designer whose visionary approach to couture revolutionized the industry. Born in Rome in 1890, Elsa grew up in a wealthy family but rejected the traditional path expected of her. Her interest in art, literature, and the avant-garde eventually drew her to Paris, where her journey in fashion began. In her early years, she was deeply influenced by the Surrealist movement, collaborating with artists like Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. Her designs reflected a daring, imaginative, and often whimsical perspective, which set her apart from her contemporaries.

The brand’s initial breakthrough came with the launch of Elsa’s signature “trompe-l’œil” sweater in 1927, a black knitted sweater featuring a white bow design that was not embroidered but integrated into the weave itself. This innovative approach quickly gained attention and propelled Schiaparelli to the forefront of the fashion world. By the 1930s, she had established her atelier at 21 Place Vendôme in Paris, where she began experimenting with bold colors—most notably her now-famous “shocking pink”—and unconventional materials. Schiaparelli’s daring designs challenged traditional notions of fashion, making her one of Coco Chanel’s fiercest rivals.

Throughout the 1930s, Elsa Schiaparelli created some of her most iconic works, often drawing inspiration from art and surrealism. Her collaborations with Salvador Dalí led to groundbreaking pieces, such as the Lobster Dress (1937) and the Shoe Hat (1938), which blurred the lines between fashion and art. She also introduced innovative elements like zippers as visible design features and pioneered the use of thematic collections—an idea that has since become a cornerstone of modern fashion. These creative endeavors cemented Schiaparelli’s reputation as a boundary-pushing and inventive designer.

However, the onset of World War II brought significant challenges for the brand. In 1940, Elsa Schiaparelli closed her Paris atelier and moved to the United States. After the war, she attempted to revive her fashion house, but her avant-garde approach struggled to resonate in a post-war world increasingly drawn to Dior’s “New Look,” which emphasized traditional femininity. Facing declining relevance, Elsa closed the Schiaparelli label in 1954, the same year she published her autobiography, Shocking Life. She would live the rest of her life largely out of the public eye until her death in 1973.

For decades, the Schiaparelli name lay dormant until it was revived by Diego Della Valle, CEO of Tod’s Group, in 2006. Della Valle acquired the rights to the brand and began a gradual process of relaunching the house. In 2012, Schiaparelli’s original atelier at Place Vendôme was reopened, signaling the brand’s re-emergence in the luxury fashion world. A new chapter began when Marco Zanini was appointed creative director in 2013, bringing the label back to the runway with a contemporary reinterpretation of its historic aesthetic. Although Zanini left after just one year, the foundation for the house’s revival had been laid.

The turning point for Schiaparelli’s modern identity came in 2019 with the appointment of Daniel Roseberry as the creative director. Roseberry infused the brand with fresh energy while maintaining its connection to Elsa’s surrealist roots. Under his leadership, Schiaparelli has become a prominent force on red carpets and couture runways, with daring designs that captivate audiences worldwide. Celebrities like Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, and Kim Kardashian have embraced the brand’s bold aesthetic, cementing its relevance in contemporary culture.

Today, Schiaparelli is celebrated as a symbol of fearless creativity and artistic innovation in fashion. The brand’s journey—from its surrealist origins to its post-war challenges, its dormancy, and eventual revival—illustrates its enduring ability to adapt and inspire. Schiaparelli continues to honor Elsa’s legacy while pushing the boundaries of modern design, proving that her vision was truly ahead of its time.

Vision

Schiaparelli’s vision has always revolved around the fusion of art and fashion, challenging conventional aesthetics while embracing bold, surrealist creativity. From its inception, Elsa Schiaparelli envisioned her designs as more than just clothing—they were statements of individuality and wearable works of art. Inspired by the avant-garde and surrealist movements, her pieces often incorporated unexpected motifs, unconventional materials, and striking colors, such as her signature “shocking pink.” This groundbreaking approach continues to define the brand’s identity, celebrating a fearless, imaginative perspective that transcends trends and embraces the extraordinary. Schiaparelli’s designs aim to empower individuals, encouraging them to express themselves unapologetically while celebrating their uniqueness.

Under the leadership of Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli’s modern vision remains deeply rooted in its founder’s surrealist ethos, while adapting to contemporary luxury fashion. Roseberry has revitalized the house by blending Elsa’s bold heritage with futuristic elements, creating couture collections that provoke thought and inspire awe. The brand continues to prioritize artistry and craftsmanship, using avant-garde techniques to reimagine Elsa’s iconic designs for today’s fashion-forward audience. With its focus on innovation, boundary-pushing design, and a celebration of individuality, Schiaparelli’s vision speaks to those who view fashion not just as clothing but as a powerful medium of self-expression and cultural dialogue.

Mission

Schiaparelli’s mission is to honor its rich heritage of avant-garde creativity and surrealist artistry while redefining the boundaries of modern luxury fashion. The brand seeks to create designs that are not merely garments but transformative expressions of individuality, where art and fashion seamlessly intertwine. Staying true to Elsa Schiaparelli’s daring vision, the house is committed to inspiring self-confidence and empowering its clientele to embrace boldness, imagination, and individuality. Each creation, from its couture collections to its accessories, aims to tell a story, spark conversation, and elevate fashion into a form of self-expression that transcends societal norms and conventions.

At the heart of Schiaparelli’s mission is a dedication to craftsmanship and innovation. The brand strives to preserve and evolve traditional haute couture techniques while integrating modern technologies to create designs that are timeless yet forward-thinking. By embracing fearless creativity, Schiaparelli aims to inspire a sense of wonder and possibility in its audience, ensuring that every piece reflects the house’s iconic legacy of surrealism and its commitment to artistic excellence. With an unwavering focus on pushing boundaries and creating designs that resonate emotionally and intellectually, Schiaparelli endeavors to remain a beacon of originality and artistry in the ever-evolving world of fashion.

Products and Services

Schiaparelli is renowned for its couture, luxury ready-to-wear, and exquisite accessories that push the boundaries of creativity and craftsmanship. The brand’s couture collections are its hallmark, featuring intricate designs that combine surrealist artistry with innovative design techniques. From its sculptural gowns with three-dimensional embellishments to its bold use of unexpected materials like metallics, feathers, and sculpted leather, Schiaparelli’s couture is celebrated as wearable art.

The house also offers jewellery, bags, and statement headpieces, each designed to evoke a sense of wonder and individuality. In recent years, Schiaparelli has expanded into fragrances, paying homage to its founder’s original creations, such as the iconic Shocking perfume, which debuted in 1937. In addition to its luxury products, Schiaparelli provides bespoke services that uphold the traditions of haute couture. Clients are invited to the brand’s historic atelier at Place Vendôme in Paris, where personalised consultations ensure each piece is tailored to their vision and measurements.

Over the years, Schiaparelli has introduced some of the most iconic collections in fashion history. The Circus Collection of 1938, inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s fascination with spectacle and performance, remains one of her most celebrated works. Another unforgettable creation is the Lobster Dress (1937), a collaboration with Salvador Dalí that exemplifies the house’s surrealist roots. Under Daniel Roseberry’s leadership, modern collections such as the Spring 2021 Couture line have garnered widespread acclaim for their daring, sculptural silhouettes and artistic audacity, ensuring the brand remains a powerhouse in luxury fashion.

Awards and Recognition

Schiaparelli is celebrated as one of the most influential fashion houses in history, recognized for its groundbreaking approach to design and its ability to seamlessly blend art with couture. Elsa Schiaparelli, the founder, was regarded as a pioneer who challenged the conventions of her time with bold, surrealist-inspired creations. From the moment she debuted her trompe-l’œil sweater in 1927, Schiaparelli quickly garnered international attention, cementing her reputation as an innovator. Her daring use of unconventional motifs, such as the lobster and the tear print, and her introduction of shocking pink as a fashion staple, solidified her place as a trailblazer. Schiaparelli’s collaborations with artists like Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau further elevated her designs to the realm of high art, earning her widespread acclaim among fashion enthusiasts and art connoisseurs alike.

The brand has continued to earn recognition in the modern era, particularly under the creative leadership of Daniel Roseberry. His bold reinterpretations of Schiaparelli’s surrealist legacy have reignited global interest in the house, making it a staple on red carpets and couture runways. Celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, and Doja Cat have donned Schiaparelli’s creations for major events, drawing widespread media coverage and critical praise for their audacity and craftsmanship. Notable moments include Lady Gaga wearing a sculptural, golden dove brooch and gown to the 2021 U.S. presidential inauguration and Doja Cat’s stunning Swarovski crystal ensemble at Paris Fashion Week in 2023. These moments highlight the brand’s enduring ability to create culturally significant fashion that captivates audiences worldwide.

Schiaparelli’s work has also been recognized and celebrated by prestigious institutions and exhibitions. Major museums, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, have showcased the brand’s iconic designs as part of their fashion retrospectives. Elsa Schiaparelli herself has been widely acknowledged as one of the great innovators of 20th-century fashion, often cited alongside other legends such as Coco Chanel and Christian Dior. The house’s continued dedication to artistry, innovation, and boundary-pushing creativity has ensured its enduring recognition in the fashion industry and beyond, firmly cementing Schiaparelli’s place as a leader in both historical and contemporary luxury fashion.

Key People

Creative Director Daniel Gooseberry

References

• Official website Schiaparelli
• All Schiaparelli collections Vogue
• See Shocking Works by Fashion Legend Elsa Schiaparelli Art Net
• The Mother of Strange Fashion The New York Times
• Wiki page of Schiaparelli Wikipedia
• History of luxury fashion brand Schiaparelli Schiaparelli
• 5 Times Elsa Schiaparelli Revolutionised the Perfume World Vogue
• Schiaparelli Fall 2023 Couture Vogue
• LinkedIn account of Schiaparelli LinkedIn
• Schiaparelli Becomes the Name to Wear on the Red Carpet Harper’s Bazaar
• The Forgotten Couturier Elsa Schiaparelli Daily Art Magazine
• Daniel Roseberry on Reviving Schiaparelli’s Playful Spirit Vogue
• Facebook account of Schiaparelli Facebook
• Elsa Schiaparelli: the “shocking” designs at the Paris exhibition EuroNews
• Instagram account of Schiaparelli Instagram
• Elisa Schiaparelli Met Museum
• Triumphant display of organza, satin and 1940s chic The Guardian
• Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2023 Couture Vogue
• Haute couture: Lacroix rend un hommage Elsa Schiaparelli La Presse
• Schiaparelli Jewelry World of eccentricity and charm