Varun Bahl

Varun Bahl- who balances indigenous textile craft, design innovation and global relevance with ease- is renowned for weightless lehengas and saris detailed with fresh, floral hand embellishment. His loyal clientele swear each ensemble is a modern heirloom because of its classic design sensibility as he continually expands the scope and boundaries of haute couture by combining Indian traditional textile techniques, painstaking craftsmanship and design innovation.

Since its inception in 2001, eponymous luxury fashion brand Varun Bahl is inextricably tied to its signature surface ornamentation, simple clean silhouettes and a fusion of textures... and that means you may find hand block printing, appliqué or hand embroidery on an ensemble crafted from the finest fabrics with distinctive textures. 

With a passion for merging traditional Indian craftsmanship with modern design sensibilities, Varun Bahl has carved a niche for himself in the fashion industry. Graduating from the National Institute of Fashion Technology in New Delhi, he launched his eponymous luxury label in 2004 and has since become a prominent name in the Indian fashion industry. His work has received international acclaim and commercial success with his Spring Summer 2004 collection showcased at White in Italy. 

"I have always wanted to be a designer. I started small in 2001 and my first milestone so to speak was an instant success with Ensemble the following year. The learning process continued and instilled in me the confidence to exhibit my collection in Milan which got me huge orders. I think my earlier years studying an evening course at National Institute of Fashion Technology and working alongside my brother to create and sell ideas to Houses like Armani and Kenzo have all helped lead me to this moment" he told Explosive Fashion. “Mature, chic and experimental is how I see my clientele. My design aesthetic is similar because I do not blindly follow trends. I take up a theme, give it a twist and make it mine."

The fashion designer beautifully balances wearability with a two-pronged vision to innovate design and sustain indigenous textile craft. And has always believed that textiles and crafts have to be innovated with and presented as modern design solutions for today's customers. This is a simple approach that works especially with the newly-informed fashion-conscious consumer.

Varun Bahl's ensembles range from traditional Indian occasion wear and bridal wear to modern separates. His love for floral motifs has earned him the title of "couturier of flowers" and he explores these motifs in each of his collections with great attention to detail. “I begin with the techniques I want to highlight for a particular season. Our embroideries are our strong point. Then comes my other love — pattern-making. I bring these two together" Varun Bahl tells Explosive Fashion. "Our color combinations are also unique and timeless and that gets added to the mix. My style of working around a collection is a bit like 'method-in-the-madness' and that's how I function at my creative best."

Varun Bahl believes in preserving the authentic couture craftsmanship that feeds into each collection he creates. "Couture in India is a mature industry fed not only by designers but by skilled craftsmen and artisans. If one explores the sectors of Banaras with respect to brocade and jamdani in Gujarat.. the couture culture will rapidly expand" he told Explosive Fashion. "That said- over the past few years- the changes that we have seen in the couture landscape have been what we would — in the larger scheme of things — call 'visual'. For example, the average Indian consumer of couture and bridal wear has become more experimental in terms of color and cuts.. newer fabrics are accepted and lehengas are no longer sold by weight!"

The luxury fashion brand is rooted in sustainability. “As I grow in the Indian fashion ecosystem I am becoming more aware of what we, as designers, require to build sustainable businesses. By this I mean brands that are not just creatively unique, but also commercially successful, can continue to employ the best artisans—weavers, printers, dyers, embroiderers, tailors" he tells Explosive Fashion. "To do this, we need to adapt to the rapidly changing style requirements of our customers while also educating them about the amazing treasures of textiles and embellishments that are our collective legacy as Indians. To do so, I plan to concentrate on designing trend-less versatile pieces that can be styled in a variety of ways, and include our luxurious handwoven fabrics and fantastical embroideries — in modern cuts, motifs and styles."

The couturier's collections have been showcased at prestigious international fashion events such as Milan Fashion Week, where he became the first Indian designer to participate on the calendar. He has also collaborated with acclaimed Indian film producer and director Karan Johar to launch his menswear label titked Karan Johar + Varun Bahl. And partnered with luxury car brands Audi and Mercedes. 

The fashion designer does not limit himself to apparel and accessories. Per Elle Decor: ‘"Fashion for me has never been limited to clothing" explains fashion couturier Varun Bahl who designed the recently launched Baroque Garden collection of carpets for premium luxury rugs brand Cocoon Fine Rugs. Featuring classical designs of the baroque era, the series consists of six rugs that are hand knotted silk and wool blends. Each piece displays unique garden-like interpretations that capture old world charm and sophistication… and the designer’s signature floral designs, the range also blends classic European elements.’

Today Varun Bahl's retail network spans across various multi-designer boutiques across the nation and his designs are sought-after in many parts of the world including the Middle East, USA, Australia and Europe. With his latest venture- Aurum by Varun Bahl- he curates bespoke wedding festivities that showcase his precision, creativity and signature design.

Varun Bahl's classics combine hand craftsmanship with timeless elegance. Each piece showcases a harmonious combination of colors and textures that redefine contemporary Indian fashion while embracing sustainability. He believes that sustainability cannot be achieved in a day. It has to be changed gradually; for example, changing the manner in which a fabric is dyed and processed, keeping in mind the steps of how to wash garments in a certain way. Pollution and electricity are two things, which if  worked on, the team will gradually be able to move towards sustainability.
 

New Delhi-based fashion designer Varun Bahl envisions himself as an artist and couturier in the Indian fashion industry. His designs embody timeless glamour, sophistication and make a luxurious style statement. The luxury label's belief is to pave the way for haute couture to be embraced as part of one's daily wardrobe with the generous use of hand embroidered motifs and rich luminous tones like rose and fuchsia. Moreover, each collection he designs is a continuation of his ongoing love affair with culture. The couturier absorb so much on his travels across the world and take his inspiration from several sources. This fuels his creativity. 

• Varun Bahl (Founder)

Varun Bahl creates beautiful ensembles that range from traditional Indian occasion wear and bridal wear to modern separates. His love for floral hand embroidered motifs has earned him the title of "couturier of flowers" and he explores these motifs in each of his collections with great attention to detail. 

His showing at India Couture Week 2022 was a milestone. Per Explosive Fashion: 'The designer's mood board was young disruptive silhouettes but it retains his serious design sensibility—here he played with different textures and techniques using beads, feathers, sequins, gemstones, 3D hand-embroidered flowers and leaves on rich fabrics like silks and velvet astride his signature upcycled patchwork embroideries.'