Victor&Rolf

SUMMARY

Viktor&Rolf is a Dutch avant-garde luxury fashion house founded in 1993 by designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren. Renowned for their provocative haute couture and conceptual glamour, the brand has consistently challenged fashion norms by blending art and fashion in innovative ways. Their creations, often described as wearable art, have garnered international acclaim for their originality and craftsmanship.

HISTORY

Founded in 1993 by Dutch designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, luxury fashion brand Viktor&Rolf is acclaimed for its avant-garde designs, conceptual artistry, and theatrical presentations. The duo met while studying at the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design, later relocating to Paris to establish their brand. Their early work blurred the lines between fashion and art, with collections such as Atomic Bomb (1998) and Russian Doll (1999) demonstrating their sculptural approach. Their boundary-pushing vision earned them the Hyères Fashion Festival Prize in 1993, propelling them into the high fashion scene.

In the early 2000s, Viktor&Rolf expanded into ready-to-wear, launching their first women’s collection in 2000 and a menswear line in 2003. However, financial struggles led them to discontinue ready-to-wear in 2015, refocusing on haute couture. The maison was renowned for its theatrical runway shows such as Bedtime Story (2005), where models wore duvets as gowns and Cutting Edge Couture (2010), featuring clothes that were seemingly sliced apart. This surrealist approach solidified their reputation as fashion’s avant-garde provocateurs.

Fragrances became a key part of Viktor&Rolf’s commercial success, beginning with the opulent floral fragrance Flowerbomb (2005) and Spicebomb (2012) for men. Their beauty empire expanded through collaborations with L’Oréal, which took over the fragrance division. These partnerships allowed the brand to balance its conceptual designs with mass-market appeal, ensuring financial stability while maintaining its creative independence.

The maison has engaged in notable collaborations, including a 2017 partnership with Zalando that fused haute couture with streetwear and a 2019 collection with H&M, making their artistry accessible. In 2018, they got widespread attention for their ‘Fashion Statements’ collection, where models donned oversized, slogans such as ‘No Photos Please’ and ‘I’m Not Shy, I Just Don’t Like You’. This resonated with digital culture and reaffirmed their status as innovators.

Today, Viktor&Rolf remains at the forefront of haute couture, known for its dramatic silhouettes, whimsical narratives, and artistic vision. Although they maintain a selective presence in the fashion world, their impact is undeniable, with their work featured in museums such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Victoria and Albert Museum. As of 2025, their focus remains on haute couture and fragrances, ensuring that their legacy of avant-garde elegance continues to influence the industry.

Always working at the highest level of Haute Couture, Viktor and Rolf have brought artistic experimentation to womenswear with a demi-couture inspiration, to bridal wear collections with Viktor & Rolf Mariage, and to the eyewear collections with Viktor & Rolf Vision. In line with the positioning, Viktor&Rolf achieved global success in the fragrance segment, through the historic licensing agreement with L’Oréal Luxe for the production and commercialisation of fragrances, such as Flowerbomb, Spicebomb and Good Fortune.

The vision and the artistic creations of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have been celebrated in international exhibits including “Camp: Notes of Fashion” at the MET Museum, “Viktor&Rolf Fashion Artists” at the Kunsthal in Rotterdam, “Viktor&Rolf: MetaFashion!” at the Sea World Culture and Arts Center in Shenzhen, ”Viktor&Rolf par Viktor&Rolf: Première Décennie” at the Musée de la Mode et du Texile, “The House of Viktor&Rolf” at the Barbican Art Gallery, and “Viktor&Rolf: Fashion Artists” at the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne.

In the most recent news, The OTB Group announces the renewal of its collaboration with the fashion designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who will continue to lead the creative direction of Viktor&Rolf, the maison they founded in 1993 after graduation from the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design. OTB Group first invested in the luxury fashion brand in 2008 with a 51 percent stake and raised it to 70 percent in 2019. The remaining 30 percent stake is equally split between Horsting and Snoeren.

“Viktor and Rolf are two unique voices in the world of international fashion, couturiers who have revolutionised the very concept of Haute Couture, and everything they do is art. I am very happy to continue the collaboration with them, their talent will continue to inspire and amaze the fashion world,” said Renzo Rosso, Chairman and Founder of the OTB Group.

VISION

Founders Viktor & Rolf’s vision for their haute couture brand is deeply rooted in the fusion of fashion and art, striving to create garments that transcend mere clothing and become conceptual statements. The designers see haute couture as a medium for artistic expression, where each collection serves as a canvas for their creativity. Their designs often challenge conventional fashion norms by incorporating exaggerated silhouettes, intricate detailing, and unconventional materials. They believe that haute couture should  be visually striking and provoke thought, pushing the boundaries of what is considered wearable. This avant-garde approach has established the brand as a leader in conceptual fashion, known for its theatrical and thought-provoking presentations.

A central aspect of their vision is the exploration of fashion as a storytelling device. Each Viktor&Rolf collection is meticulously crafted around a theme, weaving together narratives that reflect broader cultural and artistic influences. Their runway shows are often more akin to performance art, transforming models into living sculptures that embody the brand’s distinctive aesthetic. By blurring the lines between fashion and theatre, they create immersive experiences that captivate audiences and challenge traditional ideas of luxury and beauty. This vision is evident in collections such as Wearable Art, where garments resembled framed paintings, and Fashion Statements, which featured dresses adorned with oversized slogans.

Sustainability and craftsmanship also play a vital role in Viktor&Rolf’s vision. The duo is committed to preserving the artistry of couture by emphasising hand-crafted techniques, intricate embellishments, and meticulous tailoring. At the same time, they are conscious of the evolving fashion landscape and have introduced sustainable practices into their work, such as upcycling and the use of eco-friendly materials. Their approach to haute couture reflects a balance between tradition and innovation, ensuring that their designs remain relevant while staying true to their artistic roots. Through this vision, Viktor&Rolf continue to redefine the possibilities of haute couture, proving that fashion can be both intellectually engaging and aesthetically groundbreaking.

MISSION STATEMENT

Viktor & Rolf’s mission is to bridge the gap between fashion and art, creating designs that challenge conventions and inspire creativity. They strive to push the boundaries of traditional fashion, offering innovative and thought-provoking collections that encourage viewers to see fashion in a new light. The brand is committed to maintaining its avant-garde spirit, continuously exploring new ideas and concepts to keep their work fresh and relevant. They aim to create pieces that are not only aesthetically pleasing but also intellectually engaging, inviting viewers to engage with fashion on a deeper level. Through their work, Viktor & Rolf seek to inspire others to think differently about fashion, encouraging a more thoughtful and artistic approach to design. They believe in the power of fashion to communicate ideas and evoke emotions, using their collections as a platform to share their unique perspective.

EXECUTIVE BOARD

1. Viktor Horsting: Co-founder and Co-creative Director
2. Rolf Snoeren: Co-founder and Co-creative Director

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

Viktor & Rolf offers a range of products, including haute couture and ready-to-wear collections, fragrances, and accessories. Their haute couture pieces are known for their artistic designs and meticulous craftsmanship, often featuring innovative silhouettes and materials.

For Spring Summer 2019 Haute Couture, Viktor&Rolf presented a group of exaggerated romantic tulle dresses. Volumes were grand but airy, with transparent ruffles, flounces and bows. The silhouettes, sculptural and extreme, ranging from A-lines to hourglass, were astutely expressive: each dress provided the backdrop for a bold text which was executed in layers of laser cut tulle. These texts were slogans with the kind of simplification typical of social media captions or souvenir t-shirts. The juxtaposition of these seemingly unrelated elements results in a typical Viktor&Rolf expression of surreal beauty.

Spring Summer 2023 Haute Couture witnessed a surrealist approach featuring garments worn upside down, sideways, and perpendicularly. Bodices were embellished with sparkling embroidery and bows and the pastel colour scheme was reminiscent of a painting by Boucher or Watteau. But dreams are deceptive. The mundane transformed into the absurd and vice versa. The body, while retaining the ‘dessous’ that sculpts its silhouette (traditionally an integrated part of the structure of a Couture dress), moved away from the garment. And the dress, while retaining its idealised shape, antagonises, alienates and frees itself from the body in a surreal way. In close collaboration with Hans Boodt Mannequins, lightweight 3D-printed structures were crafted to realise the gravity-defying optical illusions. The collaboration merges traditional and new techniques into bespoke ways of designing.

Spring Summer 2024 Haute Couture “Scissorhands” was a bold exploration of the creative possibilities of a tailor’s scissors. Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture SS ’24 proposes 28 all-black, signature silhouettes. The first look of each group – a flawless couture outfit, meticulously finished by hand – serves as a blueprint and starting point for consecutive iterations of the same design, each of which investigates the creative possibilities of a pair of tailor’s scissors. From minuscule holes in a rorschach motif to a ballgown hacked in half: holes and slashes are controlled and directed but also form instances of orchestrated chaos.
Viktor&Rolf try to control the chaos by meticulously hand-finishing each cut, slash and hole as well.

AWARDS AND RECOGNITION

Viktor&Rolf is recognised for its avant-garde approach, combining luxury fashion with conceptual artistry. Since its debut, the luxury brand has consistently pushed the boundaries of traditional couture, using fashion as a medium for storytelling and artistic expression. The designs are often theatrical, featuring exaggerated silhouettes, intricate draping, and unconventional materials that challenge the conventional notions of wearability. The collections, such as Wearable Art and Surreal Satin, showcase the founders’ ability to transform garments into sculptural masterpieces, reinforcing their reputation as artists rather than mere fashion designers. This commitment to innovation has set them apart, making their creations a favourite among collectors, celebrities, and museums.

In addition to their boundary-pushing haute couture, Viktor&Rolf is also recognised for its influential collaborations and signature fragrances. The 2006 partnership with H&M introduced its distinctive aesthetic to a wider demographic, demonstrating the ability to merge conceptual fashion with commercial appeal. The fragrance line, particularly Flowerbomb and Spicebomb, has achieved global success, further cementing its influence beyond haute couture. Their meticulous attention to detail, theatrical runway presentations, and refusal to conform to mainstream trends have earned the brand a lasting place in fashion history. Viktor&Rolf continues to redefine the industry by proving that fashion can be both intellectual and visually spectacular.

Throughout their career, Viktor & Rolf have received numerous accolades for their contributions to fashion. Their innovative designs and unique approach have been recognized by both the fashion industry and the art world. In 1993, they won the Hyères Fashion Festival, which helped launch their career. Their work has been exhibited in various museums and galleries, highlighting their status as fashion artists.

REFERENCES

• “Viktor & Rolf Couture Fall 2023”. WWD.
• “Revisit Viktor & Rolf’s Wildest Wearable Art, Including Their Famous Portable Bed”. W Magazine. 
•  “Viktor & Rolf: from Flowerbomb to a 70kg outfit – in pictures”. the Guardian.
• “Viktor & Rolf make wearable art for the world’s avant-garde”. South China Morning Post. 
• “Fashion’s Bridge to the Art World”. The New York Times.
• “Viktor & Rolf”. The Talks. 
• “The House of Viktor & Rolf | Yatzer”. www.yatzer.com. 
•  “Finding a Signature Scent Is Hard, But This Brand Makes 6 I’d Never Get Sick Of”. Who What Wear UK. 
• “Viktor & Rolf Stages First Asian Retrospective in China’s Shenzhen”. WWD. 
• “Viktor & Rolf Proves There Are Many Ways to Wear a Ballgown”. Fashionista. 
• “Viktor & Rolf Go Zen”. The Daily Beast. 
• “Viktor & Rolf On Creating A Follow-Up To The Couture Collection That Won Instagram”. British Vogue. 
• “Fall 2016 Couture Viktor & Rolf”, Vogue.
• #SuzyCouture: Gaultier Goes Green, Viktor & Rolf Recycle”,Vogue
• “#SuzyCouture: Viktor & Rolf- Gilding Broken Dreams“, Vogue