Vivienne Westwood

Summary

The Vivienne Westwood brand is a bold fusion of punk ethos, avant-garde design, and unrelenting social commentary, embodying the rebellious spirit of its iconic founder. Renowned for its provocative use of tartan, corsetry, and deconstructed tailoring, the brand has consistently challenged fashion norms while pushing the boundaries of art and activism. From its roots in the punk movement of the 1970s to its contemporary focus on sustainability and climate action, Vivienne Westwood’s designs reflect an audacious commitment to individuality and cultural disruption, making it one of the most influential and enduring forces in fashion history.

Vision

Vivienne Westwood’s vision extends far beyond the realm of fashion, positioning her brand as a powerful voice for social and environmental change. Westwood uses fashion as a medium to communicate urgent messages about climate change and sustainability. Her designs often feature bold, provocative statements and imagery that highlight environmental degradation, encouraging individuals to rethink their relationship with consumerism. By embedding activism into her fashion, she has made it clear that her work is not just about creating beautiful garments but about raising awareness for the planet and urging for action to protect Mother Earth, whom she often refers to as “Gaia.”

Collaborations have been a significant part of Vivienne Westwood’s mission to promote a better world. She frequently partners with environmental organizations, non-profits, and fellow activists to amplify the message of sustainability and environmental preservation. These collaborations extend her influence beyond the fashion industry, uniting diverse voices to create a larger impact. Whether working on eco-friendly collections or campaigning against deforestation, Westwood uses her platform to bring attention to critical global issues, rallying people to join her in the fight for a healthier, more sustainable future.

Vivienne Westwood’s catwalk shows are another critical component of her vision, as they serve as a stage for activism as much as for fashion. Her runway presentations often incorporate themes related to climate change, political activism, and human rights, using the visual power of fashion to leave a lasting impression on the audience. The shows go beyond mere aesthetics; they are immersive experiences that challenge societal norms and inspire change. By transforming her catwalks into platforms for environmental and social advocacy, Vivienne Westwood has redefined the role of fashion, using it as a tool to mobilize people, spark conversation, and inspire collective action for the protection of our planet.
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Mission Statement

Vivienne Westwood’s mission is rooted in using fashion as a platform for activism and change. She is committed to challenging the status quo, pushing the boundaries of traditional design while raising awareness about important social and environmental issues. Westwood’s work emphasizes the importance of individuality, creativity, and sustainability, blending bold fashion statements with messages that encourage people to think critically about consumerism and the impact of their choices on the planet.

At the heart of her mission is the desire to protect the environment. Through her “Climate Revolution” campaign and continuous advocacy for eco-friendly practices, Westwood seeks to drive change in the fashion industry and beyond. She champions responsible fashion, from using sustainable materials in her collections to encouraging her audience to consume less and make more ethical choices. Her mission reflects a deep commitment to both artistry and activism, striving to inspire a more conscious and compassionate world.

History

The hippie movement was the most popular fashion in Sixties’ London, but it didn’t inspire young couple Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren who were more intrigued by acts of rebellion. In 1971 they opened a boutique called Let it Rock in Chelsea. A year later Vivienne Westwood began designing biker clothing and leather and brought punk into mainstream fashion. The shop was re-branded with a skull and crossbones and renamed ‘Too Fast to Live- Too Young to Die’.

Vivienne and Malcolm began to design t-shirts with provocative slogans which led to their prosecution under the 1959 Obscene Publications Act and they responded by re-branding the shop once again and producing even more t-shirts featuring hard-core images!! By 1974 the shop was renamed ‘Sex’. When Malcolm became manager of punk band “Sex Pistols” the duo made headlines when the band members wore their designs. The duo enjoyed shock value– designing apparel and shoes that referenced deviant sexual practices including rubber dresses and spiked stilettos. The store that she co-managed with McLaren soon became a meeting place for members of the London punk scene.

Per Vogue: “A provocateur, radical thinker and instigator of the most important sartorial statements of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries, Vivienne Westwood is a fearless nonconformist with a relentless passion for tradition… Her revolutionary designs include the co-creation of the punk style, the introduction of street style into high fashion, the reworking of the crinoline, the restyling of Harris tweed and the reintroduction of platforms and the hourglass figure.”

Vivienne Westwood first introduced bondage trousers and other aspects of BDSM- along with safety pins and chains- to mainstream fashion. The fashion brand also inspired the style of punk icons such as Viv Albertine who wrote in her memoir: “Vivienne and Malcolm use clothes to shock, irritate and provoke a reaction but also to inspire change. Mohair jumpers knitted on big needles- so loosely that you can see all the way through them, T-shirts slashed and written on by hand, seams and labels on the outside, showing the construction of the piece…” Her use of Seventeenth and Eighteenth century cutting techniques- particularly the radical cutting lines she developed for men’s trousers- continue to be used today.

“It changed the way people looked. I was messianic about punk, seeing if one could put a spoke in the system in some way” she told Time.

In 1984 their store- now renamed Worlds End- closed in London and Vivienne relocated to Italy. Punk’s absorption into mainstream fashion inspired Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren to design “Pirate” for Autumn Winter ‘81 which has often been described as an “age of highwaymen, dandies and buccaneers” with wide-leg wide-striped Buccaneer pants and shirts worn with draped sashes. It also informed the aesthetic of their boutique with its pirate’s galleon and ship features.

Partly inspired by Westwood’s interest in portrait paintings of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth century, the “New Romantic” look filtered through to the mainstream. Subsequently the duo produced collections in Paris and London and created collections titled “Savage” “Buffalo Girls” “New Romantics” and “The Pagan Years”. After the partnership with McLaren was dissolved she often inserted her designs with slogans and political calls to action. Westwood also took inspiration from the ballet “Petrushka” and designed the mini-crini- a shorter version of the Victorian crinoline with a mini-length and bouffant silhouette.

Per Vogue: “She has been described by Anna Wintour as “an unbelievable influence” and by Alexander McQueen as “the Coco Chanel of our day”.”

John Fairchild’s book “Chic Savages” features Vivienne in a list of the world’s top six designers alongside Armani, Lagerfeld, Saint Laurent, Lacroix and Ungaro. A bright feather in her cap! She was appointed Professor of Fashion at the Vienna Academy of Applied Arts from 1989 to 1991. In December 1990, the Davies Street boutique opened in London’s Mayfair. There was no looking back. Vivienne Westwood received an award for Fashion Designer of the Year for two years in a row in 1990 and 1991 by the British Fashion Council- an O.B.E at Buckingham Palace from her Majesty Queen Elizabeth ll in 1992 and was made an Honorary Senior Fellow of the Royal College of Art that year.

In the Nineties’ a new boutique opens at 43 Conduit Street in central London and Vivienne was appointed Professor of Fashion at the Berliner Hochschule der Künste in 1993. Vivienne Westwood opened another new boutique at 44 Conduit Street in 1997 and debuted her fragrance “Boudoir” in 1998. The following year she launched her pret line “Red Label”.

The first Vivienne Westwood New York boutique opened in 1999 and she debuted her menswear line in Milan. A Vivienne Westwood licensed boutique launched in Tokyo shortly. Westwood also worked with Richard Branson to design uniforms for Virgin Atlantic. Westwood and Branson were keen to use sustainable materials and chose recycled polyester. Her official e-commerce website launched in 2001 and the following year Vivienne Westwood opened a boutique in Hong Kong and two in Korea. Her efforts didn’t go unnoticed. Vivienne received the UK Fashion Export Award for Design in June 2003.

A new Vivienne Westwood flagship boutique opened in Milan in 2003. The following year Victoria and Albert Museum hosted a retrospective exhibition celebrating Vivienne Westwood’s contribution to fashion. Vivienne visited Buckingham Palace for a second time to meet his royal highness Prince Charles- the Prince of Wales to accept her Damehood in 2006 and also received Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design award at the 2007 British Fashion Awards.

In June 2013 Westwood announced she was  focused on environmental and sustainability issues. The following year- as part of Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015- Westwood allied with nonprofit organisation “Farms Not Factories” to design T-shirts and tote bags made using ethically sourced organic cotton. In 2015, Vivienne Westwood Ltd had expanded worldwide and was operating sixty-three outlets as she continued to design with sustainable materials that have a reduced impact on the environment.

“We know there is a contradiction between our activism and the industry we are part of. Fashion creates products which are too often disposable, and which – through their creation, distribution and eventual disposal – can have a disproportionately negative impact on our planet, its wildlife and people. We know this and we know we must do better. We have been adapting the way we make our clothes and accessories over the last few years to reflect the growing urgency to change how the industry operates.. We are committed to strong, holistic action in the interests of farmers- artisans- supply chain workers- brand employees- our customers- our communities and all life on earth.” Per a manifesto on the official website.

It was a time for expansion worldwide. The Vivienne Westwood New York and Paris flagship boutiques opened their doors in 2016 and the Ginza Six flagship boutique opened in Japan in April 2017. A flagship boutique on Patterson Street in Hong Kong opened in November 2018. Both the Vivienne Westwood Shanghai and Beijing Flagship boutiques opened in 2021.

Per Vogue- on her Autumn Winter 2021 collection- “From the mini-crini and beyond, Westwood has long upcycled deadstock modes of dressing to renew them through her urgent and maverick eye. This collection’s refreshed melange… starred across prints on shirting, T-shirts, denim, bodysuits, dresses and a frock-coatish parka, competing with clashing ginghams, stripes, herringbones, and checks. Not unlike Boucher, Westwood is a master at subverting apparent propriety to invoke the truthful and unruly; her signature brushstrokes of drunken tailoring and subversive drape were in full effect here.”

Dame Vivienne Westwood died at the age of 81.

Key Team

The fashion brand is helmed by CEO Carlo D’Amario and Creative Director Andreas Kronthaler

Products and Services

Vivienne Westwood is praised for her revolutionary approach to fashion, blending bold creativity with activism. Her products are not only rooted in high fashion but also in cultural commentary, pushing the boundaries of traditional design. From apparel to accessories, Westwood’s collections feature a mix of edgy punk elements, historical references, and avant-garde silhouettes. Her couture, ready-to-wear, and bridal, are known for their rebellious spirit and sharp tailoring, making them sought after by individuals who appreciate fashion, artistry and a message.

Vivienne Westwood introduced punk and street style into mainstream fashion, and her collections continue to reflect her evolving design aesthetic, marrying the raw energy of her early work with more refined, sustainable choices. In addition to her apparel, Vivienne Westwood’s accessories have become iconic in their own right. Her jewellery, shoes, and handbags all exhibit her distinctive style, often featuring bold designs, the signature orb logo, and a mix of luxury materials with a punk twist. These pieces are not just accessories; they serve as statements that reflect Westwood’s ethos of blending fashion with social and environmental consciousness. Her use of tartans, asymmetry, and deconstructed designs allows her customers to express individuality, making her brand a symbol of self-expression and non-conformity.

Vivienne Westwood’s services go beyond just fashion design. She actively uses her platform to promote environmental causes and sustainable fashion practices. Through collaborations with ethical brands and her “Climate Revolution” campaign, Westwood advocates for conscious consumerism and responsible fashion. She has also introduced eco-friendly fabrics into her collections, helping to lead the industry towards a more sustainable future. With custom couture options and bespoke designs, Westwood offers a personalized fashion experience that reflects both her commitment to artistry and her desire to create a better world.

Awards and Recognition

Vivienne Westwood is globally celebrated as a trailblazer who revolutionized fashion by fusing punk aesthetics with high couture. Her groundbreaking designs, such as the iconic Pirate Collection and her provocative reinterpretations of traditional British styles, have earned her widespread acclaim.  Beyond fashion, she is revered as a passionate activist, using her platform to champion causes such as climate change and social justice, cementing her legacy as a designer who shaped culture as much as clothing.

Westwood’s contributions to fashion were recognized with numerous accolades, including an OBE, which she received from Queen Elizabeth II at Buckingham Palace, in 1992. Notably, she earned the award for British Designer of the Year in 1990, 1991 and 2006. In 2007, Westwood was awarded a Fellowship at King’s College London and in 2008, Heriot-Watt University awarded her an honorary degree of Doctor of Letters for her contribution to the industry and use of Scottish textiles. In 2012, she was chosen as one of The New Elizabethans to mark the diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II.

References

• Official website Vivienne Westwood
• Vivienne Westwood Time
• Facebook page of Vivienne Westwood Facebook
• Vivienne Westwood coming to Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris Fashion Network
• Instagram account of Vivienne Westwood Instagram
• Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2023 Vogue
• Twitter account of Vivienne Westwood Twitter
• Coveted John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood Pieces Go Up for Auction WWD
• LinkedIn account of Vivienne Westwood LinkedIn
• Why are they picking on me? The Independent
• Youtube channel of Vivienne Westwood Youtube
• Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood RTW Fall 2023 WWD
• Wiki page of Vivienne Westwood Wikipedia
• Andreas Kronthaler talks marriage to Vivienne Westwood, Brexit and climate change Evening Standard
• Sustainability manifesto Vivienne Westwood
• All hail the Queen The Guardian
• Vivienne Westwood: punk, new romantic and beyond V&A Museum
• Vivienne Westwood: Tributes for ‘Queen of British Fashion’ after her death BBC
• Vivienne Westwood and the Postmodern Legacy of Punk Style Met Museum
• Vivienne Westwood accused of plagiarism over book on her life The Independant